{"id":7255,"date":"2018-01-21T11:27:06","date_gmt":"2018-01-21T09:27:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=7255"},"modified":"2026-01-03T20:05:41","modified_gmt":"2026-01-03T18:05:41","slug":"v-zime-je-zima","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=7255","title":{"rendered":"V zime je Zima"},"content":{"rendered":"

Predpove\u010f na v\u00edkend je dobr\u00e1, a\u017e vynikaj\u00faca. Vo\u013eba padla na Ve\u013ek\u00fa studen\u00fa dolinu. Kone\u010dne si vyleziem Teschlera na V\u00fdchodn\u00fa Vysok\u00fa. Je to \u013eah\u0161ia cesta, v\u00a0ktorej sa vz\u00e1jomne spozn\u00e1me s\u00a0nov\u00fdm spolulezcom J\u00farom. E\u0161te ve\u010der m\u00e1me info zo steny, \u017ee podmienky v\u00a0Kupole boli biedne. Ve\u013emi ma to nepote\u0161ilo, napriek tomu pl\u00e1n nemen\u00edm. R\u00e1no je e\u0161te jasno, nastupujeme do steny a\u00a0za nami akoby sa uzavrel vstup, ke\u010f sa hmla r\u00fdchlo natla\u010dila do doliny. S\u00a0\u0148ou pri\u0161la zima a\u00a0za\u010dal poletova\u0165 sneh. Na\u0161a l\u00ednia je jasn\u00e1, a\u00a0tak nem\u00e1me probl\u00e9m s\u00a0orient\u00e1ciou. Narovnali sme cestu Teschlerovcov priamo pod kom\u00edn skaln\u00fdm vh\u013aben\u00edm. K\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka viedla kom\u00ednom. P\u00e4\u0165kov\u00e9 kroky v trojkovom ter\u00e9n s\u00fa zauj\u00edmav\u00e9 a\u00a0v\u00fdlez do m\u00e4kk\u00e9ho snehov\u00e9ho vank\u00fa\u0161a na mor\u00e1le neprid\u00e1val. Cesta vedie \u010falej po rampe, ktor\u00e1 kon\u010d\u00ed prudk\u00fdm zr\u00e1zom a\u00a0pokra\u010duje zhruba 10 metrov pod nami. Po\u010dasie v\u00f4bec nie je lezeck\u00e9. Rampa zhora vyzer\u00e1 nepr\u00edjemne, exponovan\u00e1 \u00fazka snehom\u00a0zasypan\u00e1. Zva\u017eujeme zlani\u0165 a\u017e dole. Obaja c\u00edtime, \u017ee to nechceme vzda\u0165, je okolo obeda a\u00a0sme zhruba v\u00a0polovici. Po 10 metrovom spuste sme optimistickej\u0161\u00ed a\u00a0predsa len to sk\u00fasime. P\u00e1r krokov cez exponovan\u00e9 miesto a\u00a0sneh na rampe je dobr\u00fd. \u010co sa ale ned\u00e1 poveda\u0165 o\u00a0po\u010das\u00ed. Doliezam k\u00a0J\u00farovi, fu\u010d\u00ed, v\u0161ade sa sype sneh a\u00a0hmla je \u010doraz hustej\u0161ia. R\u00fdchlo beriem veci a\u00a0traverzujem do \u017e\u013eabu. Cestu doliezame na hrebe\u0148 Pu\u0161k\u00e1\u0161ov\u00fdm variantom. Zl\u00fd sneh nazna\u010duje, \u017ee sa bl\u00ed\u017eime na hrebe\u0148.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\u010cas hodne pokro\u010dil. Skaln\u00fd v\u00fd\u0161vih na hrebeni som vzdala a\u00a0posielam dopredu J\u00faru, dnes mu to ide. Prudk\u00fd vietor a\u00a0mr\u00e1z sa dost\u00e1va k\u00a0slovu, v\u0161etko je namrznut\u00e9, dokonca aj moje br\u00fdle a\u00a0tak ni\u010d nevid\u00edm. Tak\u00fato zimu som e\u0161te neza\u017eila. Cez hmlu sa \u0165a\u017eko ale predsa len orientujem, J\u00fara stopercentne spolieha na moju znalos\u0165 ter\u00e9nu. Posledn\u00fd traverz a\u00a0odvia\u017eeme sa z\u00a0lana, posledn\u00fdch 50 metrov doliezame s\u00f3lo. O\u00a0pol \u0161tvrtej sme kone\u010dne na v\u0155\u0161ku. Po sedem hodinovom boji tu stoj\u00edme uprostred ni\u010doho. Zostup cez studen\u00e9 sedlo je jedinou odmenou zato, \u017ee sme to nevzdali. E\u0161te za svetla otv\u00e1rame dvere chaty. Zima sa podp\u00edsala\u00a0op\u00e4\u0165 na prstoch pravej nohy.
\nV\u00a0nede\u013eu r\u00e1no sme st\u00e1le obklopen\u00ed\u00a0hmlou. Tak \u010dak\u00e1me. U\u017e vym\u00fd\u0161\u013eam n\u00e1hradn\u00fd pl\u00e1n, ke\u010f sa hmla za\u010dala trha\u0165. Tak predsa len to slnie\u010dko dostane \u0161ancu. \u0160lapeme pod Streleck\u00fa ve\u017eu. V\u00a0\u017e\u013eabe je jeden skaln\u00fd prah, ktor\u00fd ke\u010f pust\u00ed, \u017e\u013eab je n\u00e1\u0161. Poh\u013ead na naklonen\u00fa policu zmraz\u00ed n\u00e1\u0161 optimizmus. Vyr\u00e1bame \u201enesmrte\u013en\u00fd\u201c \u0161tand asi pol hodinu. Sk\u00fasi\u0165 to sk\u00fasime, je to predsa Pu\u0161k\u00e1\u0161ova cesta, to mus\u00ed pusti\u0165. A\u00a0naozaj, bolo to \u013eah\u0161ie ako sa zdalo a\u00a0k\u00fat pokryt\u00fd \u013eadov\u00fdm firnom pon\u00fakol par\u00e1dne lezenie. V\u00a0\u017e\u013eabe zaliatym slnkom akoby zak\u00farili. 200 metrov pachtenia na\u0161\u0165astie po firne zav\u0155\u0161il skaln\u00fd v\u00fd\u0161vih na vrcholov\u00fd hrebe\u0148 a\u00a0sme hore. U\u017e\u00edvame si az\u00faro. M\u00f4j poh\u013ead nie raz zabl\u00fadil na V\u00fdchodn\u00fa Vysok\u00fa, kde sme v\u010dera v\u00a0zajat\u00ed zimy a\u00a0hmly bojovali o\u00a0ka\u017ed\u00fd centimeter. Ak\u00fd to zvrat za p\u00e1r hod\u00edn.
\nT\u00fary:<\/strong>
\n13.1. –\u00a0 V\u00fdchodn\u00e1 Vysok\u00e1, Prostriedkom steny, III, OS team, subj. V
\n14.1. –\u00a0 Streleck\u00e1 ve\u017ea, \u013dav\u00fdm \u017e\u013eabom, IV-V, OS team
\nSpolulezec:<\/strong> Ji\u0159\u00ed Jaro\u0148<\/p>\n

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\"Vrchol<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"vrchol<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"Teschler,<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"Teschler,<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"Teschler,<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"Streleck\u00e1<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"\u013dav\u00fdm<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"\u013dav\u00fdm<\/a><\/div><\/div>
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