{"id":18150,"date":"2024-12-28T14:20:40","date_gmt":"2024-12-28T12:20:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=18150"},"modified":"2026-01-02T22:33:58","modified_gmt":"2026-01-02T20:33:58","slug":"yosemity-jesen-2024","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=18150","title":{"rendered":"Yosemity, jese\u0148 2024"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

T\u00fato jese\u0148 sme spolu s Stanom Filkorom, Robom Vrl\u00e1kom, Ma\u0165om Dudom a Pe\u0165om Min\u00e1rikom boli na mesiac dlhom lezeckom v\u00fdlete v mekke a rodisku lezenia, v Kalifornskom Yosemitskom n\u00e1rodnom parku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Yosemity s\u00fa miesto, kde si pr\u00eddu na svoje pr\u00edvr\u017eenci sn\u00e1\u010f v\u0161etk\u00fdch discipl\u00edn skaln\u00e9ho lezenia. Od boulderingu, cez \u0161portov\u00e9 skalky, tradi\u010dn\u00e9 skalky, viacd\u013a\u017ekov\u00e9 lezenie v\u0161eho druhu, \u0165a\u017ek\u00e9 bigwallov\u00e9 h\u00e1kova\u010dky, a\u017e po vrchol lezeck\u00e9ho umenia, vo\u013en\u00e9 bigwallov\u00e9 lezenie. Moj\u00edm
spolulezcom cel\u00fd mesiac bol Robo Vrl\u00e1k. Miestny \u0161t\u00fdl lezenia je dos\u0165 \u0161pecifick\u00fd a klasifik\u00e1cia \u0161p\u00e1r ve\u013emi tvrd\u00e1, napr\u00edklad pre porovnanie, viacero ciest za 5.11a (6c) by boli v Chamonix \u010di v Tatr\u00e1ch bez pochyby 7a\/7a+, a nikto by si proti tomu nedovolil poveda\u0165 ani pol slova.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Do Josov som \u0161iel bez konkr\u00e9tnej\u0161\u00edch cie\u013eov, azda mo\u017eno okrem legend\u00e1rnej cesty Nos na El Capitana. Chcie\u0165 vyliez\u0165 El Capitan je super, ale ke\u010f \u010dlovek prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t zbad\u00e1 stenu, pochop\u00ed, \u017ee to nebude len tak. Nos je najpopul\u00e1rnej\u0161ia cesta v stene, ale ur\u010dite ju neradno podce\u0148ova\u0165. \u00daspe\u0161nos\u0165 prelezu \u013eud\u00ed, ktor\u00ed do cesty nalez\u00fa prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t, sa odhaduje na 50%.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Vzh\u013eadom na to, \u017ee sme chceli \u010do najviac zvr\u00e1ti\u0165 \u0161ance v n\u00e1\u0161 prospech, nenap\u00e1lili sme to do El Capa hne\u010f z prvej po pr\u00edchode, \u010do by takmer ur\u010dite skon\u010dilo fiaskom, ale rozliezali sme sa asi 10 dn\u00ed v krat\u0161\u00edch jednod\u0148ov\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa v Yosemitoch taktie\u017e \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9 a rozhodne by sa nemali opom\u00edna\u0165. Do ve\u013ekej steny, ako je El Capitan, treba okrem vo\u013en\u00e9ho lezenia dobre ovl\u00e1da\u0165 a by\u0165 efekt\u00edvny a r\u00fdchly v technickom lezen\u00ed, \u010do sme sa takisto sna\u017eili pred pokusom svedomito natr\u00e9nova\u0165. V neposlednom rade treba ma\u0165 optimalizovan\u00e9 ostatn\u00e9 techniky a finty bigwallov\u00e9ho lezenia od \u0165ahanie svine cez stavanie portaledgu a\u017e po sranie do s\u00e1\u010dku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V\u0161etka t\u00e1to pr\u00edprava sa vyplatila, preto\u017ee ke\u010f sme s Robom naliezli do pokusu, v\u0161etko n\u00e1m perfektne i\u0161lo, a fungovali sme ako dobre zabehnut\u00fd stroj. Nos m\u00e1 celkom 30 d\u013a\u017eok a 1000 metrov. Pokia\u013e sa priamo nesna\u017e\u00edte o vo\u013en\u00fd prelez, treba kl\u00e1s\u0165 prioritu na efektivitu pohybu, nesna\u017ei\u0165 sa onsajtova\u0165 d\u013a\u017eky, ktor\u00e9 by v\u00e1s st\u00e1li prive\u013ea s\u00edl a \u010dasu. Vo\u013ene sme v Nose liezli spravidla do 5.10a a klasifik\u00e1cia n\u00e1\u0161ho prelezu je 5.10a, C2. \u201eC2\u201c znamen\u00e1, \u017ee ide o relat\u00edvne bezpe\u010dn\u00e9 a priamo\u010diare h\u00e1kovanie, bez nutnosti pou\u017eitia kladiva, preva\u017ene po friendoch a vkl\u00ednencoch, miestami po cam-hookoch, \u010do je miestna \u0161pecialita a pou\u017e\u00edva sa do tenk\u00fdch \u0161p\u00e1r, kde by bolo ina\u010d nutn\u00e9 t\u013ac\u0165 skobu. Cestu sa n\u00e1m podarilo vyliez\u0165 s dvomi
bivakmi v stene.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Po Nose sme sa venovali op\u00e4\u0165 jednod\u0148ov\u00fdm v\u00fdpadom \u010di u\u017e na skalky alebo viacd\u013a\u017eky a vo\u013en\u00e9mu lezeniu, ale st\u00e1le v n\u00e1s vrela t\u00fa\u017eba vr\u00e1ti\u0165 sa e\u0161te do nejak\u00e9ho bigwallu. Navrhol som Robovi cestu Zodiac (5.8 C3f\/A2), s \u010d\u00edm neisto s\u00fahlasil, ale po chv\u00edli sa pre \u0148u nadchol
tie\u017e. Ide o 16 d\u013a\u017ekov\u00fa, 600 metrov vysok\u00fa, extr\u00e9mne previsnut\u00fa, r\u00fddzu h\u00e1kova\u010dku. Nach\u00e1dza sa v pravej \u010dasti El Capitana. Asi nikdy som neliezol vo v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ej expoz\u00edcii, ka\u017ed\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka od za\u010diatku do konca je previsnut\u00e1, t\u00e1 najstrm\u0161ia prev\u00edsala na d\u013a\u017eku lana asi 15 metrov.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Technick\u00e9 lezenie v\u00a0Zodiacovi je na \u00faplne inej \u00farovni ako v\u00a0Nose. V\u00a0ceste je viacero C3 d\u013a\u017eok, kde u\u017e treba ma\u0165 trochu chochmesu a\u00a0citu pre istenie. Pokia\u013e chcete cestu vyliez\u0165 \u010do najmenej s\u00a0pou\u017eit\u00edm kladiva, nemin\u00fa v\u00e1s chu\u0165ovky ako napr\u00edklad lezenie po rukou zalo\u017een\u00fdch jedni\u010dk\u00e1ch, sekcie po skyhookoch, camhookoch a\u00a0pod.. Cestu sme vyliezli
rovnako ako nos, s\u00a0dvoma bivakmi v\u00a0stene.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vylezen\u00e9 cesty:<\/strong>
Cookie cliff Waverly Wafer<\/em> 5.11a OS
Cookie cliff Catchy<\/em> 5.10d OS
Middle Cathedral Central pillar of Frenzy<\/em> 5.9 OS
Middle Cathedral Stoners highway<\/em> 5.10d OS
Arch rock Gripper<\/em> 5.10b OS
Arch rock New dimensions<\/em> 5.11a Af
Arch rock Leanie minie<\/em> 5.11b OS
Arch rock Midterm<\/em> 5.10b OS
Reeds pinnacle Reeds pinnacle direct <\/em>5.10a OS
Reeds pinnacle Lunatic fringe<\/em> 5.10c OS
Reeds pinnacle Stone groove <\/em>5.10b OS
Sentinel Steck\/Salathe <\/em>5.10c OS
El Capitan The Nose<\/em> 5.10 C2
El Capitan Zodiac<\/em> 5.8 A2\/C3
\u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0 \u00a0
Za podporu – \u010di u\u017e materi\u00e1lnu alebo finan\u010dn\u00fa – v\u010fa\u010d\u00edm SHS James, HK Man\u00edn,\u00a0Nik\u00e9 Fondu pre bud\u00facnos\u0165 \u0161portu, Tendon a\u00a0Mountain Equipment.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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