{"id":18051,"date":"2024-12-17T22:43:43","date_gmt":"2024-12-17T20:43:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=18051"},"modified":"2026-01-02T22:37:51","modified_gmt":"2026-01-02T20:37:51","slug":"slovensko-cesky-tim-na-vrchole-trango-tower-6-254-m-n-m","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=18051","title":{"rendered":"Slovensko-\u010desk\u00fd t\u00edm na vrchole Trango Tower (6 254 m n. m.)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

D\u0148a 23. j\u00fala 2024 sa podarilo t\u00edmu v zlo\u017een\u00ed Martin Kras\u0148ansk\u00fd, Tom\u00e1\u0161 Bu\u010dek, Mi\u0161o Miku\u0161\u00ednec a Franti\u0161ek Buli\u010dka (\u010cR) zap\u00edsa\u0165 do hist\u00f3rie ako prv\u00fdm Slov\u00e1kom, ktor\u00ed \u00faspe\u0161ne zdolali ikonick\u00fa ve\u017eu Trango Tower v pohor\u00ed Karakoram v Pakistane. Zap\u00edsali\u00a0si tak, druh\u00e9 opakovanie lezeckej l\u00ednie Gran Diedre Desplomado po 38 rokoch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Parametre l\u00ednie a \u0161t\u00fdl v\u00fdstupu<\/strong>

Cesta Gran Diedre Desplomado, ktor\u00fa prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t vyliezol Michel Piola v roku 1987, m\u00e1 1 100 vertik\u00e1lnych metrov a vedie preva\u017ene z\u00e1padnou stenou. Obtia\u017enos\u0165 cesty dosahuje hodnoty 7b+ a A3. V\u00fdstup trval celkovo 13 dn\u00ed a bol realizovan\u00fd v kapsulovom \u0161t\u00fdle, \u010do zah\u0155\u0148alo postupn\u00e9 zakladanie bivakov na r\u00f4znych miestach, \u010d\u00edm sa umo\u017enil postup vy\u0161\u0161ie aj za nepriazniv\u00fdch podmienok.

V\u00fdzvy a priebeh v\u00fdstupu<\/strong>

Pr\u00edpravy zah\u0155\u0148ali aklimatiza\u010dn\u00e9 v\u00fdstupy do v\u00fd\u0161ky 5 100 m n. m., ktor\u00e9 sa uk\u00e1zali by\u0165 n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9 kv\u00f4li rozbit\u00fdm su\u0165ovisk\u00e1m a ne\u010dakan\u00fdm lav\u00ednam. P\u00f4vodn\u00fd pl\u00e1n postavi\u0165 t\u00e1bor na \u00fap\u00e4t\u00ed steny musel by\u0165 zmenen\u00fd. Prv\u00fd t\u00e1bor sme vybudovali a\u017e v druhej d\u013a\u017eke cesty. Po \u00favodn\u00fdch troch d\u0148och sme sa pre zl\u00e9 po\u010dasie museli vr\u00e1ti\u0165 do z\u00e1kladn\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora zregenerova\u0165.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

N\u00e1\u0161 druh\u00fd pokus bol odhodlanej\u0161\u00ed a trval desa\u0165 dn\u00ed. Pre komplik\u00e1cie so snehom a nepriazniv\u00e9 po\u010dasie sme sa rozhodli ignorova\u0165 predpovede a postupova\u0165 aj v minim\u00e1lnych okn\u00e1ch dobr\u00e9ho po\u010dasia. Denn\u00e9 rann\u00e9 mrazy a z\u00e1padn\u00e1 orient\u00e1cia steny komplikovali pokusy o vo\u013en\u00e9 prelezy. Bivaky sme postupne pres\u00favali vy\u0161\u0161ie na \u010derstv\u00e9 snehov\u00e9 police v 6., 10. a 14. d\u013a\u017eke.

K\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e9 momenty<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

1.       Technick\u00e9 \u00faseky<\/strong> – prekon\u00e1vanie \u0165a\u017ek\u00fdch d\u013a\u017eok, pri\u010dom iba dve boli krat\u0161ie ako 50 metrov, bolo fyzicky aj psychicky vy\u010derp\u00e1vaj\u00face. Franti\u0161ek Buli\u010dka zvl\u00e1dal n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9 \u00faseky vr\u00e1tane \u010dasti 7b vo v\u00fd\u0161ke pribli\u017ene 800 metrov nad zemou a teplotou pod bodom mrazu. Vo\u013en\u00e9 lezen\u00e9 d\u013a\u017eky dosahovali obtia\u017enos\u0165 7b+ pri\u010dom ani \u013eahk\u00e9 d\u013a\u017eky neboli v\u00f4bec zadarmo.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

2.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0Preklopenie do ju\u017enej steny<\/strong>\u00a0– posledn\u00fdch 500 metrov \u0161t\u00edtovej steny a n\u00e1sledn\u00fd prechod do slne\u010dnej ju\u017enej steny bol estetick\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitkom pripom\u00ednaj\u00facim sc\u00e9ny z in\u00e9ho sveta.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\"\"<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

3.       Vrcholov\u00fd \u00fatok<\/strong> – h\u013eadanie cesty na vrchol za snehovej b\u00farky a v tme bolo emocion\u00e1lne aj fyzicky n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9. Vrchol sme dosiahli 23. j\u00fala neskoro ve\u010der.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

4.       Zostup <\/strong>– posledn\u00e9 momenty na portaledgoch sme si u\u017e\u00edvali s vedom\u00edm \u00faspechu. Zostup v\u0161ak nebol jednoduch\u00fd, ke\u010f sme transportovali \u0165a\u017ek\u00e9 vybavenie do z\u00e1kladn\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Po n\u00e1vrate do t\u00e1bora n\u00e1s priv\u00edtali \u010desk\u00ed a pakistansk\u00ed kamar\u00e1ti, ktor\u00ed zorganizovali srde\u010dn\u00e9 priv\u00edtanie s oh\u0148ostrojom a hostinou. Tento moment bol naozaj \u010darovn\u00fd a zd\u00f4raznil d\u00f4le\u017eitos\u0165 spolupr\u00e1ce a priate\u013estva v horolezeckej komunite.

Z\u00e1ver<\/strong>
Celkovo sme str\u00e1vili 13 dn\u00ed v stene, prekonali technick\u00fa obtia\u017enos\u0165 7b+ A3 a po 1100 vertik\u00e1lnych metroch sme dosiahli vrchol.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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