{"id":16211,"date":"2023-10-06T17:53:56","date_gmt":"2023-10-06T15:53:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=16211"},"modified":"2026-01-03T10:03:46","modified_gmt":"2026-01-03T08:03:46","slug":"grand-capucin-chamonix","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=16211","title":{"rendered":"Grand Capucin, Voie Petit 8b"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

V polke J\u00fana sme spolu s \u010desk\u00fdm kolegom – Frantom Buli\u010dkom z Prahy vyrazili smer Chamonix. Cie\u013e bol jasn\u00fd chceli sme \u00eds\u0165 liez\u0165  450 metrov\u00fa cestu Voie Petit obtia\u017enosti 8b na Grand Capuc\u00edna (3 838m). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ke\u010f sme v sobotu 18. 6. dorazili do Sallanches za chalanmi Adamom, Ri\u0161om a Matejom predpove\u010f na najbli\u017e\u0161ie dni nevyzerala v\u00f4bec pozit\u00edvne. Napriek tomu sme sa ale rozhodli vyu\u017ei\u0165 aspo\u0148 jeden de\u0148 \u00fadajne dobr\u00e9ho po\u010dasia a vyrazili sme hned v nede\u013eu r\u00e1no lanovkou z Talianska pod Gand Capuc\u00edna. V ten de\u0148 sa n\u00e1m podarilo e\u0161te naliez\u0165 do cesty, ale pod 5. d\u013a\u017ekou (8b) za\u010dalo sne\u017ei\u0165 a boli sme n\u00faten\u00fd kompletne mokr\u00fd utiec\u0165 zo steny. Druh\u00fd de\u0148 r\u00e1no sme sa na ladovci zobudili do upr\u0161an\u00e9ho r\u00e1na a nezost\u00e1valo n\u00e1m ni\u010d in\u00e9 ako zbali\u0165 mokr\u00e9 veci a \u00eds\u0165 resti\u0165 dole do Val Aosty.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Celkovo \u0161tyri dni sme str\u00e1vili v okol\u00ed Aosty, 2 dni sme venovali odpo\u010dinku a dva dni lezeniu na lok\u00e1lnych skalk\u00e1ch, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa v tejto oblasti naozaj kvalitn\u00e9. Nav\u0161t\u00edvili sme dve \u0161portov\u00e9 oblasti Tetto di Sare  a Barliard. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tick list Tetto di Sarre: 20. 6. 2023<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sarre 2000 8a+ OS
Parsifal 8a Flash
Kabuki 7c+ OS
Crudite Perve 7b OS<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tick list Barliard: 21. 6. 2023<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Revolution 8a OS
Lightning 7c OS
Karma 7b+ Flash
Maison Grimpe 7b+ OS
Marmorea 7b Flash<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Po p\u00e1r d\u0148och v Aoste meteorol\u00f3govia predpovedali dlh\u00e9 okno pekn\u00e9ho po\u010dasia. Nadi\u0161iel n\u00e1\u0161 \u010das, zabalili sme veci na 5 dn\u00ed bivakovania a hne\u010f \u010fal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 sme vyrazili hore. Ke\u010f\u017ee sme sa dostali hore po troch d\u0148och da\u017e\u010fa, takmer cel\u00fd Kapuc\u00edn bol vyte\u010den\u00fd. Rozhodli sme sa preto oddychova\u0165 oddychova\u0165 na \u013eadovci v campe. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

V sobotu 24. 6. kone\u010dne nastal de\u0148 D, stena vyschla a skoro r\u00e1no sme nast\u00fapili do cesty. V\u0161etko i\u0161lo hladko a pred obedom sa ocit\u00e1me pred k\u013e\u00fa\u010dovou d\u013a\u017ekou. K\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00fa d\u013a\u017eku sa mi podarilo  preliez\u0165 na druh\u00fd pokus. Potom n\u00e1s \u010dakali e\u0161te 2 \u0165a\u017e\u0161ie d\u013a\u017eky jedna za 7c+, ktor\u00fa sa mi podarilo preliez\u0165 na Flash a 7b+ ktor\u00e9 pustilo na OS. Na bivakovaciu policu sme vyliezli tot\u00e1lne mokrou d\u013a\u017ekou a zbytok cesty sme nechali na \u010fal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u010ea\u013e\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 n\u00e1s po studenom bivaku na polici \u010dakali e\u0161te 2 ta\u017e\u0161ie dl\u017eky a viacero lah\u0161\u00edch. Prv\u00fa \u0165a\u017e\u0161iu za 8a sa Frantovi podarilo na Flash, mne na druh\u00fd pokus a 7b+ sa mi podarilo na OS a u\u017e n\u00e1s \u010dakalo iba p\u00e1r lah\u0161\u00edch d\u013a\u017eok na vrchol. Okolo obeda sme boli hore a u\u017e n\u00e1s \u010dakalo iba zlani\u0165.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u010eal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 sme str\u00e1vili restday na stanici lanovky. Predpoved e\u0161te hovorila o dvoch d\u0148och pekn\u00e9ho po\u010dasia a tak sme sa rozhodli vybra\u0165 si e\u0161te \u010dere\u0161ni\u010dku na z\u00e1ver v podobe L’or du temps 7c+ 450m taktie\u017e na Grand Capucina.Cesta sa podarila \u0161t\u00fdlom Team Flash, \u010do znie fajn, ale bolo to sk\u00f4r horko-sladk\u00e9 v\u00ed\u0165azstvo, ke\u010f\u017ee sa mi podarilo da\u0165 na OS v\u0161etky \u0165a\u017ek\u00e9 d\u013a\u017eky a spadol som v takmer poslednej u\u017e \u013eahkej d\u013a\u017eke za 7a – Shit happens. Na\u0161\u0165astie Franta si to z \u013eahkos\u0165ou dal na Flash ja za n\u00edm na TR. Ani on ani ja som nech\u00e1pal, \u017ee zrovna v tejto d\u013a\u017eke som spadol, preto\u017ee zo 7a d\u013a\u017eok, bola jednozna\u010dne naj\u013eah\u0161ia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tick list Grand Capuc\u00edn (3838m)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Voie Petit 8b,  450m (K\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka na druh\u00fd pokus)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’or du temps 7c+, 450m Team Flash<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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