{"id":15598,"date":"2023-05-03T20:46:29","date_gmt":"2023-05-03T18:46:29","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=15598"},"modified":"2026-01-03T10:44:00","modified_gmt":"2026-01-03T08:44:00","slug":"reprezentacne-sustredenie-ticino","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=15598","title":{"rendered":"Reprezenta\u010dn\u00e9 s\u00fastredenie TICINO"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Spolo\u010dne s Tom\u00e1\u0161om sme sa v d\u0148och 18.-30.3. z\u00fa\u010dastnili na bouldrovom s\u00fastreden\u00ed SHS JAMES vo \u0161vaj\u010diarskom Ticine. Je to jedna z najv\u00e4\u010d\u0161\u00edch a najzn\u00e1mej\u0161\u00edch bouldrov\u00fdch lokal\u00edt na svete s neskuto\u010dnou kvantitou kvalitnej \u017euly a mno\u017estvom svetovo zn\u00e1mych bouldrov, medzi nimi napr\u00edklad aj jeden z naj\u0165a\u017e\u0161\u00edch na svete Alphane 9A. Boli sme celkovo dvan\u00e1sti zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch k\u00fatov Slovenska, s\u00fastredenia sa z\u00fa\u010dastnili v\u00e4\u010d\u0161inou \u010dlenovia reprezent\u00e1cie, \u010do znamenalo z\u00e1ruku dobrej partie. Ja som mal cie\u013e vyliez\u0165 \u010d\u00edm viac bouldrov 8A a viac, Tom\u00e1\u0161ove amb\u00edcie bohu\u017eia\u013e do ve\u013ekej miery limitovalo zranenie lak\u0165a a nesk\u00f4r aj zranen\u00e9 koleno. Na\u0161\u0165astie sa mu aspo\u0148 \u010dosi poliez\u0165 dalo a teraz u\u017e sa dost\u00e1va op\u00e4\u0165 do skaln\u00e9ho rytmu \ud83d\ude42

B\u00fdvali sme priamo nad mestom Bellinzona, ktor\u00e9 je pr\u00edhodne umiestnen\u00e9 medzi dvoma ve\u013ek\u00fdmi oblas\u0165ami Brione a Chironico, kde sme sa vyskytovali naj\u010dastej\u0161ie. Najviac \u010dasu sme tr\u00e1vili v Brione. Brionsk\u00e1 \u017eula je \u0161pecifick\u00e1, kr\u00e1sne prevr\u00e1snen\u00e1, jej vrstvy tvoria bouldre ako umeleck\u00e9 diela, ktor\u00e9 vyslovene l\u00e1kaj\u00fa \u201evylez ma, vylez ma!\u201c. Cel\u00e9 Brione je rozdelen\u00e9ho do trochu hlavn\u00fdch sektorov \u2013 vy\u0161n\u00fd les, sektor v rie\u010disku a za riekou, a ni\u017e\u0161ie polo\u017een\u00e1 Ganne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

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Vo vy\u0161nom lese sme str\u00e1vili hlavne prv\u00fd de\u0148, kedy sa n\u00e1m e\u0161te v r\u00e1mci rozliezania podarilo vyliez\u0165 nieko\u013eko pekn\u00fdch bouldrov \u2013 ja som zap\u00edsal Molonk 7C, ktor\u00fd je jedn\u00fdm z najlep\u0161\u00edch uk\u00e1\u017eok unik\u00e1tnej text\u00fary skaly v Brione, a trochu ne\u010dakane a pomerne r\u00fdchlo aj Disney production 8A+. Tom\u00e1\u0161 zas vyliezol napr\u00edklad traverz Richard L\u00f6wenherz 8A. Ke\u010f\u017ee sme toho v\u0161ak chceli ve\u013ea pochodi\u0165, i\u0161li sme \u010fal\u0161ie dni inam a sp\u00e4\u0165 do tohto sektora sme sa u\u017e ve\u013emi nedostali.

Najviac \u010dasu sme tr\u00e1vili v Ganne, ktor\u00e9 pon\u00fakalo kr\u00e1sne prostredie, mno\u017estvo vynikaj\u00facich bouldrov a okrem toho priamo v rie\u010disku bola \u017eula obmyt\u00e1 vodou ve\u013emi pr\u00edjemn\u00e1 na ko\u017eu, tak\u017ee sa dalo liez\u0165 aj ke\u010f u\u017e bola fajne zodrat\u00e1. Mne sa tu podarilo vyliez\u0165 nieko\u013eko z mojich naj\u0165a\u017e\u0161\u00edch preleov, napr\u00edklad Forever more 8A+ s \u0165a\u017ek\u00fdmi \u0165ahmi po mal\u00fdch chytoch na za\u010diatku a mor\u00e1lov\u00fdm pretlakom cez dla\u0148 nakoniec, ktor\u00fd v\u0161ak nebol ani z\u010faleka tak hrozn\u00fd ako vyzeral. V tomto bouldri z\u00e1rove\u0148 S\u00e1ra \u0160imekov\u00e1 a Lujza Michalkov\u00e1 zdvihli maxim\u00e1lnu obtia\u017enos\u0165 slovensk\u00e9ho \u017eensk\u00e9ho boulderingu. Okrem toho medzi top bouldre sektoru pre m\u0148a patril Darkness 8A+, dvojkrokov\u00e1 zamyka\u010dka cez kreditku s vysokou nohou, ktor\u00e9 sa mi spolu s Pe\u0165om Kuricom podarilo flashn\u00fa\u0165, a varianta Darkness right 7C, ktor\u00e9 si s nami vyliezol aj Tom\u00e1\u0161. Okrem toho si popri testovan\u00ed, \u010di u\u017e m\u00f4\u017ee aspo\u0148 ako-tak liez\u0165, vyliezol napr\u00edklad aj Kick the tree 7B+ na Flash. Z\u00e1\u017eitkom bolo aj no\u010dn\u00e9 sk\u00fa\u0161anie vymyt\u00e9ho technick\u00e9ho k\u00fata There is no spoon 7A+, ktor\u00e9 p\u00f4vodne za\u010dal Tom\u00e1\u0161 a cel\u00e1 partia sme u\u017e za svetla reflektorov pokusovali a\u017e do neskor\u00fdch ve\u010dern\u00fdch hod\u00edn. A \u00faplne top boulder bol pre m\u0148a Wie Im Urlaub 7C+! Ten pocit beztia\u017ee pri skoku do madla by som doprial ka\u017ed\u00e9mu. Ganne je naozaj super sektor, kde si ka\u017ed\u00fd na\u0161iel to svoje a aj pre hobby lezcov pon\u00fakal kopec dobr\u00fdch mo\u017enost\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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V rie\u010disku a za n\u00edm sme s\u00edce str\u00e1vili jeden de\u0148, pri ktorom si Tom\u00e1\u0161 na\u010dal spom\u00ednan\u00e9 koleno, okrem tohto incidentu to v\u0161ak bol mega \u00faspe\u0161n\u00fd de\u0148. Ve\u013ek\u00fa \u010das\u0165 z neho sme str\u00e1vili na kameni Frogger s neskuto\u010dne vytvarovanou rie\u010dnou skalou formuj\u00facou \u017eulov\u00e9 tufy. Prv\u00fdm z\u00e1rezom bol Fake Pamplemousse 8A, boulder ako vystrihnut\u00fd z bouldrovky, druh\u00fdm boulder Frogger po \u017eulov\u00fdch tufk\u00e1ch. Tak\u00e9to skvosty bola rados\u0165 liez\u0165, aj ke\u010f v dlhom Froggerovi sol\u00eddne natekalo. Poslednou chu\u0165ovkou na z\u00e1ver bolo Pamplemousse 7C+ v lesnom sektore, kde v\u0161ak takisto skala vytvarovala neskuto\u010dn\u00e9 stekance. Takto \u00faspe\u0161n\u00e9 dni sa veru neopakuj\u00fa \u010dasto.

Z\u00e1veren\u010dn\u00e9 dni sme str\u00e1vili vo ved\u013eaj\u0161ej doline v Chironicu. Ja som tu mal vyhliadnut\u00fd najm\u00e4 jeden cie\u013e – Nobody ist der Gr\u00f6\u00dfte 8A. Na\u0161iel som si u\u017e cca 4-5 rokov dozadu pri poslednej n\u00e1v\u0161teve Chironica, vtedy som v\u0161ak nemal silu spravi\u0165 v tomto netypicky oblinovom \u017eulovom bouldri ani verziu zo stoja za 7B+. T\u00e1 i\u0161la tentokr\u00e1t hne\u010f prv\u00fdm pokusom a po p\u00e1r nacvi\u010dovac\u00edch v SD verzii som sa po z\u00e1vere\u010dnom \u0165apkacom oblinovom z\u00e1vere postavil na vrchol kame\u0148a.

Celkovo bolo s\u00fastredenie, tak ako minul\u00fd rok vo Font\u00e1\u010di, vynikaj\u00facou pr\u00edle\u017eitos\u0165ou stretn\u00fa\u0165 sa, v\u00fdborne si zaliez\u0165 a nazbiera\u0165 cenn\u00e9 sk\u00fasenosti do \u010fal\u0161\u00edch projektov. Tom\u00e1\u0161ovi bohu\u017eia\u013e zranenie samotn\u00e9 lezenie skomplikovalo, aj tak sme ale spolo\u010dne v partii str\u00e1vili super spolo\u010dn\u00e9 chv\u00edle a te\u0161\u00edme sa na \u010fal\u0161ie!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A\u010fo<\/strong><\/td> <\/strong><\/td>Tom\u00e1\u0161<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
Darkness<\/td>8A+<\/td>Flash<\/td> <\/td>Richart L\u00f6wenherz<\/td>8A<\/td>Solo<\/td><\/tr>
Forever more<\/td>8A+<\/td>Solo<\/td> <\/td>Darkness right<\/td>7C<\/td>Solo<\/td><\/tr>
Disney production<\/td>8A+<\/td>Solo<\/td> <\/td>Humphrey Bogart Direct<\/td>7C<\/td>Solo<\/td><\/tr>
Nobody ist der Gr\u00f6\u00dfte<\/td>8A<\/td>Solo<\/td> <\/td>Kick the tree<\/td>7B+<\/td>Flash<\/td><\/tr>
Frogger<\/td>8A<\/td>Solo<\/td> <\/td>Happy hand<\/td>7B<\/td>Solo<\/td><\/tr>
Fake Pamplemousse<\/td>8A<\/td>Solo<\/td> <\/td>Sunny slab<\/td>7A<\/td>Flash<\/td><\/tr>
Entwash<\/td>8A<\/td>Solo<\/td> <\/td> <\/td> <\/td> <\/td><\/tr>
Pamplemousse<\/td>7C+<\/td>Solo<\/td> <\/td> <\/td> <\/td> <\/td><\/tr>
Wie im Urlaub<\/td>7C+<\/td>Solo<\/td> <\/td> <\/td> <\/td> <\/td><\/tr>
Darkness right<\/td>7C<\/td>Solo<\/td> <\/td> <\/td> <\/td> <\/td><\/tr>
Molonk<\/td>7C<\/td>Solo<\/td> <\/td> <\/td> <\/td> <\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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