{"id":15396,"date":"2023-02-21T10:51:15","date_gmt":"2023-02-21T08:51:15","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=15396"},"modified":"2026-01-03T10:47:03","modified_gmt":"2026-01-03T08:47:03","slug":"severna-stena-petit-dru","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=15396","title":{"rendered":"Severn\u00e1 Stena Petit Dru"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Vo febru\u00e1ri som sa vybral s Luk\u00e1\u0161om Bullom do Chamonix. Hne\u010f od za\u010diatku som mal jasn\u00fd cie\u013e s ktor\u00fdm Luk\u00e1\u0161 s\u00edce trochu s obavami, ale hne\u010f s\u00fahlasil. Severn\u00e1 stena Les Drus bezm\u00e1la tis\u00edc metrov\u00e1, tmav\u00e1, chladn\u00e1 a vzbudzuj\u00faca re\u0161pekt a v nej vyz\u00fdvav\u00e1 l\u00ednia Lesueurovej cesty. T\u00e1to cesta vznikla v 50tych rokoch minul\u00e9ho storo\u010dia, ale do h\u013ead\u00e1\u010dika lezcov sa dostala hlavne a\u017e s pokrokom techn\u00edk v mixovom lezen\u00ed v pribli\u017ene posledn\u00fdch desiatich rokoch a predstavuje v\u00e1\u017enu v\u00fdzvu na zimn\u00e9 mixov\u00e9 lezenie. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Cesta sa kv\u00f4li ve\u013ekej koncentr\u00e1cii \u0165a\u017ek\u00e9ho lezenia lezie spravidla s bivakom. Hne\u010f po pr\u00edchode nem\u00e1rnime \u010das a pekn\u00e9 po\u010dasie aklimatiz\u00e1ciou a rovno nastupujeme pod stenu, „ve\u010f \u010do to je 3800m…“ ako sa uk\u00e1zalo, ke\u010f treba liez\u0165 d\u013a\u017eku za d\u013a\u017ekou v kolm\u00fd mix s batohom na chrbte, 3800 je celkom dos\u0165. N\u00e1stup sa javil krat\u0161\u00ed ako v skuto\u010dnosti bol a na ly\u017eiach s batohmi pln\u00fdmi proviantu, plynu a vybavenia vr\u00e1tane zdvojenej sady friendov to bola celkom slu\u0161n\u00e1 drina. O pribli\u017ene piatej r\u00e1no za\u010d\u00edname ukrajova\u0165 prv\u00e9 metre z cesty, vonku je \u0161tiplav\u00fdch -15, ale heej, je predsa febru\u00e1r v alp\u00e1ch. N\u00e1stup Allainovou cestou cez snehov\u00e9 pole n\u00e1s r\u00fdchlo priviedol pod za\u010diatok ozajstn\u00e9ho lezenia. Podmienky s\u00fa pomern\u00e9 dobr\u00e9, za\u013eadnen\u00e9 \u0161p\u00e1ry a kom\u00edny, tvrd\u00e9 firny a \u013eadov\u00e9 glaz\u00fary. Gro cesty predstavuje stredn\u00e1 tretina, kde sa lezie st\u00e1le M5 a viac s ne\u00farekom d\u013a\u017eok za M6 a dvoma k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00fdmi d\u013a\u017ekami za M7. Pribli\u017ene 80% celej cesty som liezol ako prvolezec vr\u00e1tane v\u0161etk\u00fdch \u0165a\u017ek\u00fdch d\u013a\u017eok, \u010do si na mne vybralo svoju da\u0148 po psychickej aj po fyzickej str\u00e1nke. Predstava o onsighte sa rozplynula ke\u010f sa mi v \u0161p\u00e1re zasekol cep\u00edn tak, \u017ee som si musel sadn\u00fa\u0165 do frienda aby som ho vybral. \u0160t\u00fdl n\u00e1\u0161ho prelezu je M7, A0. Prv\u00fd lezeck\u00fd de\u0148 sme boli na noh\u00e1ch 13 hod\u00edn a aj tak sme museli zabivakova\u0165 asi o 100 metrov sk\u00f4r ako bolo v pl\u00e1ne. \u010eal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 lezieme e\u0161te nieko\u013eko celkom n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fdch d\u013a\u017eok a potom sa nap\u00e1jame do severn\u00e9ho kulo\u00e1ru a po pribli\u017ene \u010fal\u0161\u00edch piatich preva\u017ene \u013eadov\u00fdch d\u013a\u017ekach doliezame o 15tej poobede na vrchol Petit Dru.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\r\n
\"IMG_4024\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4024<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_4042\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4042<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_4023\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4023<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_4055\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4055<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_4054\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4054<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_4022\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4022<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_4053\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4053<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_4060\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4060<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_4057\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4057<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_3998\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_3998<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_4056\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4056<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_4013\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4013<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_4052\"<\/a><\/div>
<\/div>\n
IMG_4052<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>
<\/div><\/div>
<\/div><\/div>