{"id":14648,"date":"2022-07-19T23:14:14","date_gmt":"2022-07-19T21:14:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=14648"},"modified":"2026-01-03T13:39:24","modified_gmt":"2026-01-03T11:39:24","slug":"stredom-platni-10","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=14648","title":{"rendered":"Stredom platn\u00ed, 10-"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Po\u010das troch n\u00e1v\u0161tev vo Ve\u013ekej Zmrzlej doline sme s Kvasom preistili a o\u010distilistar\u00fa technick\u00fa cestu  Stredom platn\u00ed<\/a> (VI-, A4, Ae) A. Belica, I.Koller, 7 – 8. 8. 1974, vo v\u00fdchodnej stene Vy\u0161nej Baranej str\u00e1\u017enice. Prv\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka kop\u00edruje smer orgin\u00e1lu technickej cesty v druhej a v tretej sme sa \u00faspe\u0161ne pok\u00fasili o napriamenie linky.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

V stene sme str\u00e1vili tri dni pr\u00e1cou a lezen\u00edm. Okrem lezenia n\u00e1m najviac \u010dasu zabralo cestu uvies\u0165 do stavu vhodn\u00e9ho na vo\u013en\u00e9 lezenie. Teda p\u00e1r hod\u00edn kart\u00e1\u010dovania a vymenenie star\u00fdch nitov za nov\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Pre oboch to bola celkom adrenalinov\u00e1 sk\u00fasenos\u0165 prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t v\u0155ta\u0165 a rovno zo spodu \ud83d\ude00 Na tret\u00ed de\u0148 sa mi podarilo vyliez\u0165 vo\u013ene v\u0161etky d\u013a\u017eky. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cesta m\u00e1 3 d\u013a\u017eky:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

1. d\u013a\u017eka, 10-,  <\/strong>30 metrov – je to k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka cesty a jej obtia\u017enos\u0165 je 10-. Prv\u00e9 2\/3 d\u013a\u017eky je prijemne lezenie do jemn\u00e9ho previsu obtia\u017enosti okolo 8+. Potom nasleduje crux cesty. 7B boulder na z\u00e1ver d\u013a\u017eky, kde sa previs l\u00e1me do kolmice. Boulder je preto technicko-silov\u00fd. Na 30 metrov s\u00fa v nej pou\u017eit\u00e9 4 nity (3 star\u00e9 nity boli vymenene za nove a 1 jeden sme pridali). <\/p>\n\n\n\n

2. d\u013a\u017eka, 9+<\/strong>, 30 metrov – obtia\u017enos\u0165 tejto d\u013a\u017eky je boulder cez cca 5 metrov\u00fd previs nad prv\u00fdm \u0161tandom. Bouldr\u00edk je to krokovo ve\u013emi pekn\u00fd, Najde sa v \u0148om \u0161pi\u010dka aj nejake tie kolienka \ud83d\ude09 V tejto d\u013a\u017eke s\u00fa pou\u017eit\u00e9 2 nity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

3. d\u013a\u017eka<\/strong>, 8-<\/strong>, 55 metrov – fin\u00e1lna technick\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka cez platne a\u017e na vrchol. Obtia\u017enos\u0165 tejto d\u013a\u017eky je ukryt\u00e1 v peknej 12 metrovej platni\u010dke nad druh\u00fdm \u0161tandom. V d\u013a\u017eke s\u00fa 3 nity. ( 2 v uvodnej platni + 1 pod vrcholovou ve\u017ei\u010dkou). Na vrchole sme osadili zla\u0148\u00e1k. V\u0161etky \u0161tandi s\u00fa osaden\u00e9 2 nitmi. Tak\u017ee sa d\u00e1 stenou na 2 kr\u00e1t zlani\u0165.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ve\u013ek\u00e1 v\u010faka patr\u00ed v\u0161etk\u00fdm, ktor\u00ed n\u00e1m pomohli. Za ubytovanie, pohostenie a starostlivos\u0165 Chate pri Zelenom plese ( V\u010eAKA Tom\u00e1\u0161, Sisa a Lubo).  Za po\u017ei\u010dan\u00fd materi\u00e1l \u010eakujeme Radovi H\u00e1jkovi, Ferkovi Pia\u010dkovi a Apovi \ud83d\ude42 Samozrejme ve\u013ek\u00e9 po\u010fakovanie n\u00e1\u0161mu Klubu HK Man\u00edn za podporu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

(videjko) https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/watch?v=H2kDehpceJA<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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