{"id":14263,"date":"2022-04-26T20:24:12","date_gmt":"2022-04-26T18:24:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=14263"},"modified":"2026-01-03T13:49:22","modified_gmt":"2026-01-03T11:49:22","slug":"sustredenie-chamonix","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=14263","title":{"rendered":"S\u00fastredenie Chamonix"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

V marci sa pod z\u00e1\u0161titou SHS James konalo zimn\u00e9 horolezeck\u00e9 s\u00fastredenie v Chamonix. V chudobnej\u0161ej zostave sme sa do Franc\u00fazska vybrali ja, Ri\u0161o Nemec, Marek Ko\u010dvara a Luk\u00e1\u0161 Dula. Ke\u010f \u010dlovek ide na t\u00fd\u017ede\u0148 do Cham, d\u00e1 sa toho post\u00edha\u0165 fakt ve\u013ea, alebo aj ni\u010d. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Po pr\u00edchode stavujeme v\u0161etko na jednu kartu a na cel\u00fa dobu n\u00e1\u0161ho v\u00fdjazdu sa so v\u0161etk\u00fdmi vecami vyv\u00e1\u017eame na AiguilleduMidi s cie\u013eom liez\u0165 v\u0161etky dni na ValleeBlanche. Podmienky s\u00fa na dan\u00fa ro\u010dn\u00fa dobu extr\u00e9mne such\u00e9, v\u00e4\u010d\u0161ina mixov\u00fdch ciest je prakticky neleziteln\u00e1, alebo s\u00fa kv\u00f4li ve\u013ek\u00e9mu mno\u017estvu vo\u013en\u00fdch \u0161utrov vo v\u00fdlezoch nebezpe\u010dn\u00e9. Mno\u017estvo na\u0161ich potenci\u00e1lnych cie\u013eov sa obhliadkou stavu stien st\u00e1le len zu\u017euje a zu\u017euje. Napriek n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fdm podmienkam sme s Richardom vyliezli dve cesty a povesili jeden pyte\u013e do bud\u00facna.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Prv\u00fd de\u0148 sme naliezli do cesty Scotch on theRocks (ED2), M7 na Mont Blanc duTacul. Ke\u010f\u017ee sa jedn\u00e1 o preva\u017ene skaln\u00fa l\u00edniu, \u00fapln\u00e1 absencia \u013eadu v tejto \u010dasti steny by nemusela ma\u0165 fat\u00e1lne d\u00f4sledky. No v kone\u010dnom d\u00f4sledku ich mala. Ch\u00fdbaj\u00faci \u013ead tu bol k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00fd a kritick\u00fd, slab\u00e9 mo\u017enosti istenia a odkryt\u00e1 prehnit\u00e1 skala n\u00e1s don\u00fatili zlani\u0165. \u010eal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 sme naliezli do cesty Modica – Noury (TD, 450m). \u013dadu je v tejto ceste pomenej, \u010do prispieva k trochu atrakt\u00edvnej\u0161iemu lezeniu, aktu\u00e1lne okolo M6, WI5+. Cestu sme vyliezli a\u017e na vrchol hrebe\u0148a.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Po jednom dni oddychu sme si vybrali sestersk\u00fa l\u00edniu cesty Modica \u2013 Noury a to Gabarrou – Albinoni (TD-, 500m). Ani v tejto ceste sa nezvykne dolieza\u0165 a\u017e na hrebe\u0148, my sme \u0148ou prefi\u010dali iba za 2 hodiny a n\u00e1sledne sme pokra\u010dovali \u010fal\u0161\u00edch 400 v\u00fd\u0161kov\u00fdch metrov po v\u00fdchodnom hrebeni na samotn\u00fd vrchol Mont Blanc duTacul, na ktor\u00fd sme dorazili pred 11tou hodinou.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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