{"id":13456,"date":"2021-09-23T13:41:40","date_gmt":"2021-09-23T11:41:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=13456"},"modified":"2026-01-03T14:30:41","modified_gmt":"2026-01-03T12:30:41","slug":"moja-sezona-v-chamonix","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=13456","title":{"rendered":"Moja sez\u00f3na v Chamonix"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Cez leto som str\u00e1vil cel\u00fd august vo franc\u00fazskom Chamonix. Na druhom konci lana mi robil spolo\u010dnos\u0165 hlavne Marek Kultan a v druhej polke mesiaca sa k n\u00e1m pridal aj Pe\u0165o Cipka. Cel\u00e1 jar a za\u010diatok leta sa v hor\u00e1ch v celej Eur\u00f3pe vyzna\u010dovala chladn\u00fdm a upr\u0161an\u00fdm po\u010das\u00edm. Snehu na kopcoch aj v sten\u00e1ch bolo na dan\u00e9 ro\u010dn\u00e9 obdobie nadpriemerne. Na\u0161u cestu do Chamonix sprev\u00e1dzal d\u00e1\u017e\u010f takmer po cel\u00fa dobu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Predpove\u010f na prv\u00e9 augustov\u00e9 dni bola neist\u00e1 s premenliv\u00fdm po\u010das\u00edm, ale sn\u00e1\u010f sa n\u00e1m podar\u00ed nie\u010do vyliez\u0165, vyr\u00e1\u017eame na Envers! Po strastiplnom n\u00e1stupe s 20 kilov\u00fdmi batohmi staviame stany na par\u00e1dnej plo\u0161ine priamo pod Tour Verte a ostatn\u00fdmi magick\u00fdmi \u0160amon\u00edjsk\u00fdmi ihlami. E\u0161te v ten de\u0148 nastupujeme do 11 d\u013a\u017ekovej cesty Desperado za 6c+ na Aiguille de Roc. <\/strong>Ach kone\u010dne po roku op\u00e4\u0165 tieto \u0161p\u00e1ry, tieto rajbasy, \u010do st\u00fapi\u0161 to dr\u017e\u00ed, toto mi ch\u00fdbalo, o tomto sn\u00edvam cel\u00fd lockdown. Dve d\u013a\u017eky od vrcholu n\u00e1s \u017eia\u013e ot\u00e1\u010da d\u00e1\u017e\u010f so snehom a tak mokr\u00ed, ale v dobrej n\u00e1lade zla\u0148ujeme. \u010eal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 sa niet kam pon\u00e1hla\u0165, ke\u010f skala preschne d\u00e1vame si par\u00e1dnu preva\u017ene rajbasov\u00fa, 8 d\u013a\u017ekov\u00fa cestu Dracula za 6c na Tour Rouge, na onsight. <\/strong>\u010eal\u0161ie dva dni tot\u00e1lne leje a my d\u00e1vame dva n\u00faten\u00e9 restdaye ktor\u00e9 tr\u00e1vime najm\u00e4 masten\u00edm kariet a podobn\u00fdmi kratochv\u00ed\u013eami. Posledn\u00fd de\u0148 si d\u00e1vame \u010fal\u0161\u00ed miestny skvost, 14 d\u013a\u017ekov\u00fa cestu Les fleurs du mal za 6b+ na Druh\u00fd Nantillon, na onsight, <\/strong>zla\u0148ujeme r\u00fdchlo bal\u00edme stany a ostatn\u00fd bordel a be\u017e\u00edme na posledn\u00fd vlak na Montenvers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Dracula 6c+<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Les fleurs du mal 6b+<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Dracula 6c<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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Zab\u00edjanie nudy<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Po celkom kr\u00e1tkom odpo\u010dinku v doline sa bal\u00edme na \u013eahk\u00fd alpinistick\u00fd \u00fatok a ideme cez tunel na druh\u00fa stranu Mas\u00edvu Mont Blanc. Prv\u00fa noc sp\u00edme pri chate Monzino a druh\u00fd de\u0148 skoro r\u00e1no nastupujeme do bivaku Ecless do v\u00fd\u0161ky cca 3900 mnm. V\u0161ade okolo je to\u013eko snehu a \u013eadov\u00e9 \u017elabky s\u00fa vyte\u010den\u00e9 dobr\u00fdm \u013eadom, celkom nezvyk na august. Udom\u00e1c\u0148ujeme sa v spodnej z dvoch bivakovac\u00edch chatiek. Po\u010das posledn\u00e9ho roka musela dosta\u0165 riadne cez dr\u017eku, cel\u00e1 jedna stena je odvalen\u00e1, Marek v nej spal minul\u00fd rok a vtedy bola neporu\u0161en\u00e1. Chcem liez\u0165 cestu Diretisima Jori Bardil za 6c na Centr\u00e1lny pilier Freney. <\/strong>T\u00e1to cesta ma l\u00e1ka viacej ne\u017e klasika od Bonningtona, k\u013e\u00fa\u010dov\u00e9 vo\u013en\u00e9 lezenie je s\u00edce menej technicky n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9, ale za to o tejto ceste sa v porovnan\u00ed s klasikou d\u00e1 n\u00e1js\u0165 len ve\u013emi m\u00e1lo inform\u00e1ci\u00ed a neviem o \u017eiadnych slovensk\u00fdch prelezoch \u010do ju pre m\u0148a rob\u00ed e\u0161te atrakt\u00edvnej\u0161ou. No\u010dn\u00fd bud\u00edk o druhej zavelil na pr\u00edsny alpsk\u00fd \u0161tart, po\u010dasie je dobr\u00e9, a\u017e na ten vietor, ten rob\u00ed pocitovku sn\u00e1\u010f -10. O\u0161tvrtej sme u\u017e na Freneyskom \u013eadovci, a mus\u00edme chv\u00ed\u013eu \u010daka\u0165 na svetlo tak sed\u00edme na batohoch a pozorujeme so zmie\u0161an\u00fdmi pocitmi ako sa v svetl\u00e1ch \u010deloviek mihaj\u00fa bezodn\u00e9 a zlovestne vyzeraj\u00face trhliny. S brie\u017eden\u00edm sa nap\u013a\u0148aj\u00fa aj na\u0161e obavy. Nielen\u017ee je hrozn\u00e1 zima na ob\u00favanie leze\u010diek a vo\u013en\u00e9 lezenie, spodn\u00e9 d\u013a\u017eky piliera pod Candelu s\u00fa v tot\u00e1lne mixov\u00fdch podmienkach, s jedn\u00fdm cep\u00ednom na hlavu a v hlin\u00edkov\u00fdch ma\u010dk\u00e1ch je lezenie vyl\u00fa\u010den\u00e9. Pokorne sa vraciame odkia\u013e sme pri\u0161li, nu\u017e aj tak\u00e9 s\u00fa hory, aj tak\u00fd je alpinizmus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ecless<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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zatvor dvere, nech dnu nef\u00faka sneh<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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zima na \u013eadovci<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Po troch d\u0148och turistikovania je po\u010dasie st\u00e1le skvel\u00e9 a my sme e\u0161te viac motivovan\u00fd na lezenie. Bal\u00edme sa na 4 dni a ideme do doliny Charpoa, v ktorej je k\u013eud a na rozdiel od ihiel tam stretnete liez\u0165 len ve\u013emi m\u00e1lo \u013eud\u00ed, tob\u00f4\u017e nie turistov. Ako prv\u00e9 si d\u00e1vame 9 d\u013a\u017ekov\u00fa cestu Les Flammes du D\u00e9sir na Flammes de Pierre za 6c<\/strong>. Z atletick\u00e9ho lezenia v kl\u00fa\u010dovej d\u013a\u017eke som zostal mierne zad\u00fdchan\u00fd, ale nakoniec doliezam v relat\u00edvnej pohode na \u0161tand na onsight<\/strong>. \u010eal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 si kv\u00f4li ne\u010dakanej no\u010dnej b\u00farke d\u00e1vame krat\u0161iu cestu na Pointe de la Charpoa \u2013 ENSA route, 6b, 6 d\u013a\u017eok, Onsight. <\/strong>\u010eal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 nastupujeme pr\u00edjemne odd\u00fdchnut\u00ed pod stenu Moine a lezieme 8 d\u013a\u017ekov\u00fa cestu Druid za 6c, onsight. <\/strong>Tot\u00e1lny skvost, perfektn\u00e9 lezenie v ka\u017edej d\u013a\u017eke zakon\u010den\u00e9 spektakul\u00e1rnou prstovou \u0161p\u00e1rou v predposlednej d\u013a\u017eke.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u010eal\u0161ou oblas\u0165ou na programe s\u00fa z\u00e1padn\u00e9 a severn\u00e9 steny \u0161amon\u00edjskych ihiel nad Plan de l’aiguille, kde m\u00e1m u\u017e od minul\u00e9ho roka viacero vyhliadnut\u00fdch ciest, ktor\u00e9 chcem vyliez\u0165. Zo v\u0161etk\u00fdch t\u00fdch n\u00e1stupov sme celkom uchoden\u00ed a \u010fal\u0161ou v\u00fdhodou tejto oblasti je, \u017ee do bivaku sa \u0161liape pribli\u017ene len hodinu. Hne\u010f na za\u010diatok sa p\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame do 12 d\u013a\u017ekovej cesty Fidel Fiasco za 6c+ na \u0160ed\u00fd pilier Blaitiere<\/strong>. Na t\u00fato cestu som dostal viacero odpor\u00fa\u010dan\u00ed a veru, \u017ee nezoztala ni\u010d dl\u017en\u00e1 svojej povesti. Super \u0161p\u00e1rov\u00e9 lezenie a zadarilo sa mi na onsight.<\/strong>R\u00e1no znova skoro r\u00e1no vyr\u00e1\u017eame do steny. \u010cak\u00e1 n\u00e1s 19 d\u013a\u017ekov\u00fd lezeck\u00fd marat\u00f3n v podobe  miestnej ultraklasiky, cesty Cordier Pillar za 6a+<\/strong> (pod\u013ea variantu) na Grand Charmoz<\/strong>. V ceste n\u00e1s neust\u00e1le nah\u00e1\u0148aj\u00fa oblaky, niekedy n\u00e1s na chv\u00ed\u013eu zhltn\u00fa, inokedy kr\u00e1sne vykreslia expoz\u00edciu a h\u013abku steny. Na \u0161t\u00edt doliezame v z\u00e1sade bez probl\u00e9mov na onsight a zahajujeme zd\u013ahav\u00e9 zla\u0148ovanie, lano sa n\u00e1m ako z\u00e1zrakom seklo len raz a to pri \u00faplne poslednom zla\u0148\u00e1ku na \u013eadovec, tak si ju Mare\u010dek s rados\u0165ou zopakoval.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Po dni odpo\u010dinku sa k n\u00e1m do t\u00edmu pridal Pe\u0165o Cipka. Vybrali sme sa zmera\u0165 si sily s nechvalne zn\u00e1mou \u0161iro\u010dinovou cestou Brown- Whillans na \u0160ed\u00fd pilier Blatiere<\/strong>, prv\u00fdkr\u00e1t vylezenou v roku 1953!!! Naliezam do druhej, kl\u00fa\u010dovej d\u013a\u017eky, s\u00fakam sa pomaly nahor. V polke d\u013a\u017eky s\u00fa dve skoby s mailonkou, \u201eaha, tak tu sa utek\u00e1\u201c. Nadliezam, zaklad\u00e1m #5 frienda, \u0161p\u00e1ra m\u00e1 najdebilnej\u0161\u00ed mo\u017en\u00fd rozmer, pr\u00edli\u0161 \u0161irok\u00e1 na p\u00e4s\u0165, \u00fazka na chicken wing. Po p\u00e1r min\u00fatach to vzd\u00e1vam.  Neviem to proste liez\u0165, chalani to nechc\u00fa ani sk\u00fa\u0161a\u0165 a tak utek\u00e1me. E\u0161te v ten de\u0148 si st\u00edhame vyliez\u0165 cestu Leau rance d Arabie za 6b+, <\/strong>za m\u0148a RP, ke\u010f\u017ee som ju u\u017e liezol. Posledn\u00fd de\u0148 vyber\u00e1m cestu Bobokassa za 6c+ na \u010cerven\u00fd pilier Blaitiere.<\/strong> Kr\u00e1sna \u0161p\u00e1rov\u00e1 cesta, kde ma hne\u010f prv\u00e1 kl\u00fa\u010dov\u00e1 d\u013a\u017eka po slepej prstovej \u0161p\u00e1re slu\u0161ne preverila, ale po slu\u0161nom boji sa mi ju podarilo da\u0165 OS.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Koniec u\u017e beztak skvel\u00e9ho mesiaca zavr\u0161ujeme e\u0161te jedn\u00fdm v\u00fdjazdom na Envers des Aiguilles. Prv\u00fd de\u0148 lezieme 8 d\u013a\u017ekov\u00fa cestu Pasang de retour de Everest za 6c na Tour Verte, onsight.<\/strong> \u010eal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 ideme na odvr\u00e1ten\u00fa, divokej\u0161iu stranu enverskej strany ihiel do steny Pointe Lepiney<\/strong> a 19 d\u013a\u017ekovej cesty Je tai conquis, je t adore za 7a<\/strong>. Pre t\u00fato cestu je charakteristick\u00e1 hlavne obrovsk\u00e1 vy\u0161e 200 metrov\u00e1 plat\u0148a v ktorej je hne\u010f niekolko odv\u00e1\u017enych d\u013a\u017eok v siedmom stupni a \u010dast\u00fdm potenci\u00e1lom na 15 metrov\u00e9 p\u00e1dy. V\u0161etky \u0165a\u017e\u0161ie d\u013a\u017eky \u0165ah\u00e1m a na\u0161\u0165astie na onsight. V 12tej d\u013a\u017eke cez strm\u00fa bari\u00e9ru nad plat\u0148ou je kl\u00fa\u010dov\u00e9 miesto za 7a, obtia\u017enost \u017eial nerob\u00ed s\u00e9ria krokov ale jednokrokov\u00fd morfobolder kde treba naslepo nasko\u010di\u0165 do oblej hrany a len sa domnieva\u0165 kde je chyt. Pad\u00e1m ale hne\u010f na druh\u00fd pokus boulder krokujem, je to AF<\/strong> a lezieme \u010falej. Na vrch je to e\u0161te s\u00edce e\u0161te kus, ale u\u017e v pohode doliezame t\u00fato grandi\u00f3znu cestu a na \u0161t\u00edte n\u00e1s v\u00edta vidmo, ako aj pekn\u00e9 v\u00fdh\u013eady do \u00fadolia. \u010eal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 si d\u00e1vam e\u0161te cestu La Piege za 6a+ na Tour Verte spolu s Pe\u0165om, ktor\u00fd v\u0161etko \u0165ah\u00e1, ke\u010f\u017ee sa mu za posledn\u00e9 dni moc lezenia na prvom nedostalo. Obaja lezieme bezprobl\u00e9mov onsight, respekt\u00edve flash. Touto cestou sa kon\u010d\u00ed tohtoro\u010dn\u00e1 mesiac dlh\u00e1 lezeck\u00e1 ut\u00f3pia, nevyliezli sme s\u00edce \u017eiadny superepr\u00e1sk, ale po\u010dasie bolo viac ne\u017e dobr\u00e9 a u\u017eili sme si kilometre kr\u00e1snej \u017euly. Za podporu \u010fakujem HK Man\u00edn, SHS James a hlavne chalanom za super z\u00e1\u017eitky v hor\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Adam Kaniak<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cez leto som str\u00e1vil cel\u00fd august vo franc\u00fazskom Chamonix. Na druhom konci lana mi robil spolo\u010dnos\u0165 hlavne Marek Kultan a v druhej polke mesiaca sa k n\u00e1m pridal aj Pe\u0165o Cipka. Cel\u00e1 jar a za\u010diatok leta sa v hor\u00e1ch v celej Eur\u00f3pe vyzna\u010dovala chladn\u00fdm a upr\u0161an\u00fdm po\u010das\u00edm. Snehu na kopcoch aj v sten\u00e1ch bolo na dan\u00e9 ro\u010dn\u00e9 obdobie nadpriemerne. Na\u0161u cestu do Chamonix … Pokra\u010dova\u0165 na Moja sez\u00f3na v Chamonix<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":13504,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[62],"class_list":["post-13456","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sport","tag-kika"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13456","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/13"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=13456"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13456\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13508,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13456\/revisions\/13508"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/13504"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=13456"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=13456"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=13456"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}