{"id":12693,"date":"2020-09-12T20:39:23","date_gmt":"2020-09-12T18:39:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=12693"},"modified":"2026-01-03T14:53:55","modified_gmt":"2026-01-03T12:53:55","slug":"petit-dru","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=12693","title":{"rendered":"Petit Dru"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Petit Dru je so svojou viac ne\u017e 1000 metrov vysokou z\u00e1padnou stenou t\u00fd\u010diacou sa vysoko do neba jedn\u00fdm s\u00a0najpr\u00ed\u0165a\u017elivej\u0161\u00edch\u00a0 vrcholov nielen v\u00a0mas\u00edve Mont Blancu, ale v\u00f4bec a\u00a0snom mnoh\u00fdch alpinistov. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Od za\u010diatku 21. storo\u010dia v\u0161ak z\u00e1padn\u00e1 stena utrpela nieko\u013eko obrovsk\u00fdch zosuvov, ktor\u00e9 vymazali z\u00a0existencie mnoho svetozn\u00e1mych ciest ako napr\u00edklad Bonnatiho pilier a v\u00a0jej pravej \u010dasti zanechali ve\u013ek\u00fa bielu jazvu. P\u00e1dy kamenia a\u00a0v\u00fdlomy s\u00fa prakticky nepretr\u017eit\u00e9. Dnes m\u00e1 preto Petit Dru nechvalne zn\u00e1mu poves\u0165 ako kopec, ktor\u00fd sa rozpad\u00e1. \u013dav\u00e1 \u010das\u0165 steny, v\u00a0ktorej vedie aj pr\u00e1ve cesta American direct zosuvmi nebola tak zle zasi\u00e1hnut\u00e1 a\u00a0asi \u00be z\u00a0nej s\u00fa nepo\u0161koden\u00e9 a\u00a0zvy\u0161n\u00e9 d\u013a\u017eky na vrchol sa doliezaj\u00fa napojen\u00edm do severnej hrany a cesty Allain- Leiningertakzvan\u00fdm \u201eAid traverzom\u201c.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rozhodnutie vyrazi\u0165 do tejto steny nepri\u0161lo zo d\u0148a na de\u0148 a predch\u00e1dzalo mu ve\u013ea rozhovorov s Ri\u0161om, aj o tom, \u010di na to m\u00e1me, ale hlavne o ve\u013ekej miere objekt\u00edvneho rizika \u010d\u00edhaj\u00faceho v tejto stene, ktor\u00e9 je nutn\u00e9 prija\u0165. Nakoniec n\u00e1s v\u0161ak stena nato\u013eko opantala, \u017ee sme vedeli, \u017ee pri najbli\u017e\u0161om okne v po\u010das\u00ed jednoducho mus\u00edme vyrazi\u0165.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

O 3:30 zvon\u00ed bud\u00edk, o 4:10 naliezame, s Ri\u0161om sa mi lezie naozaj dobre, sme zohrat\u00ed a ke\u010f sme naviazan\u00ed na jednom lane na\u0161a spolupr\u00e1ca je intuit\u00edvna a rozumieme si. V podstate v\u0161etko do 6 lezieme s\u00fabe\u017ene na kr\u00e1tkom lane s tiblocmi a naopak vo va\u010d\u0161ine d\u013a\u017eok \u0165a\u017e\u0161\u00edch ako 7- \u0165ah\u00e1me batohy. Samotn\u00e1 cesta American direct vedie s v\u00fdnimkou zop\u00e1r d\u013a\u017eok ve\u013emi kvalitnou skalou, syst\u00e9mom k\u00fatov a \u0161p\u00e1r. Allain- Leininger je u\u017e in\u00fd pr\u00edbeh, orienta\u010dne n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00fd, mokr\u00fd a rozbit\u00fd hum\u00e1\u010d.Cestu sa n\u00e1m podarilo vyliez\u0165 v pre n\u00e1s najlep\u0161om mo\u017enom \u0161t\u00fdle, tak ako sme si to vysn\u00edvali. S v\u00fdnimkou pr\u00e1ve Aid traverzu sme obaja vyliezli v\u0161etky d\u013a\u017eky Onsight respekt\u00edve Flash a cestu sme vyliezli po takmer 17 hodin\u00e1ch roboty za 1 de\u0148.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u010cere\u0161ni\u010dkou na torte n\u00e1\u0161ho prelezu bol n\u00e1dhern\u00fd bivak na samom vrchole. \u010eal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 n\u00e1s \u010dakal u\u017e len dolez na Grand Dru, pribli\u017ene 400 metrov zla\u0148ovania a zostup po \u013eadovci … no a samozrejme hamb\u00e1\u010de a krabicov\u00e9 v\u00edno!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Petit Dru – American Direct + Allain LeiningerED1, 6c, A1, 1100m, 17 hod\u00edn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/div>\r\n
\"IMG_20200820_170149\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"118700504_1196915730667607_1388199187814566047_o\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"118729150_1196916730667507_4733058872181648214_o\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"118729507_1196916957334151_3908084069082756882_o\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"118766257_1196916804000833_5692324967452052911_o\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"118771061_1196917017334145_6732343551363216048_o\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"DSC08974\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"DSC08989\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"DSC09023\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"DSC09042\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"DSC09048\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_20200820_071938\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
\"IMG_20200820_085608\"<\/a><\/div><\/div>
<\/div><\/div>
<\/div><\/div>