{"id":12116,"date":"2020-02-12T19:03:35","date_gmt":"2020-02-12T17:03:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=12116"},"modified":"2026-01-03T15:11:03","modified_gmt":"2026-01-03T13:11:03","slug":"severna-stena-triglavu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=12116","title":{"rendered":"Severn\u00e1 stena Triglavu"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Na za\u010diatku febru\u00e1ra sme si boli s Marekom Kultanom a Ri\u0161om Bere\u0161om odpo\u010din\u00fa\u0165 na kr\u00e1snu chatku v Javor\u00e1koch a napriek hor\u00fa\u010dav\u00e1m a podm\u00e1\u010dan\u00e9mu snehu sme vyliezli pekn\u00fa \u013eadov\u00fa cestu od Pl\u0161eka na Mal\u00fa \u013dadov\u00fa ve\u017eu v \u010ciernej Javorovej doline. U\u017e dlh\u0161ie ma m\u00e1tala predstava lezenia v Julsk\u00fdch alp\u00e1ch, sledoval som u\u017e vy\u0161e mesiac miestne po\u010dasie a podmienky a podla predpovede vyzeralo \u017ee pr\u00edde peri\u00f3da p\u00e1r kr\u00e1snych slne\u010dn\u00fdch dn\u00ed. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Za\u010dali sa obvol\u00e1va\u010dky, Marek bol medzi prv\u00fdmi na zozname, ale sklamal ma so slovami, \u017ee ide boldrova\u0165 do \u0160vajcu (\u201cpfff\u201d pozn. autora). Nikto in\u00fd sa pre m\u00f4ju ponuku nenadchol a tak som zostal smutn\u00fd, ale nie na dlho!, ke\u010f\u017ee Marek \u010fal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 pri\u0161iel k rozumu a povedal, \u017ee ide. Dva dni nato stoj\u00edme v in\u00e1\u010d \u00faplne pr\u00e1zdnej doline Vrata pod obrovskou, kr\u00e1snou, severnou stenou Triglavu. Vybral som 1000 metrov vysok\u00fa cestu Skala\u0161ka za letn\u00fdch 5+. \u010ealekohladom sme si nakukali na\u0161u l\u00edniu a pripravili sme sa na skor\u00fd rann\u00fd \u00fatok. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

O siedmej r\u00e1no za\u010diname liez\u0165. Zvolili sme priamy n\u00e1stupov\u00fd variant \u201cCez Sod\u010dke\u201d, kde nas \u010dakalo poctiv\u00e9 a moralov\u00e9, kolm\u00e9, firnov\u00e9 lezenie a ja som si v duchu hovoril, dobre \u017ee sme nenaliezli po tme.     Strmos\u0165 steny n\u00e1s prekvapila, z\u010faleka sme nevyliezli s\u00fabe\u017ene to\u013eko,kolko sme mali v pl\u00e1ne, za to perfektn\u00e9 podmienky, scen\u00e9rie a expoz\u00edcia steny n\u00e1m robili rados\u0165 z lezenia. Pred zotmen\u00edm sme doliezli pod naj\u0165a\u017e\u0161iu kl\u00fa\u010dov\u00fa d\u013a\u017eku, ktor\u00e1 by v zime bola naozaj tvrdy drajt\u00fal. Ve\u013emi r\u00fdchlo zis\u0165ujem \u017ee na to nem\u00e1me ani silu, ani \u010das, za\u010d\u00ednam h\u00e1kova\u0165 a doliezam po tme. Na pokraji s\u00edl var\u00edme \u010daj a na vrchol steny sme doliezli asi o 11tej ve\u010der po takmer 16 tich hodin\u00e1ch lezenia. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Na vrcholovej n\u00e1hornej plo\u0161ine si var\u00edme ve\u013ea vody, \u010do-to zjeme a odpad\u00e1vame do spac\u00e1kov. V na\u0161om podan\u00ed by som t\u00fato cestu ohodnotil 5, A0, WI5. Treba podotkn\u00fa\u0165, \u017ee sme nevy\u0161li a\u017e na samotn\u00fd vrchol Triglavu. \u010co je trochu \u0161koda, ale po peripeti\u00e1ch s h\u013eadan\u00edm cesty sme sa \u010fal\u0161i de\u0148 tak zapr\u00e1skali, \u017ee by n\u00e1s to st\u00e1lo v kombin\u00e1cii s komplikovan\u00fdm zostupom \u010fal\u0161\u00ed bivak. Napriek tomu sme si u\u017eili par\u00e1dne doprodru\u017estvo! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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