{"id":11860,"date":"2019-12-09T18:18:28","date_gmt":"2019-12-09T16:18:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=11860"},"modified":"2026-01-03T15:17:07","modified_gmt":"2026-01-03T13:17:07","slug":"ladovy-sever","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?p=11860","title":{"rendered":"\u013dadov\u00fd sever"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Dva dni, 5. a 6.12. som vyu\u017eil super predpove\u010f a vyliezol dve perfektne cesty v sveroch \u013dadov\u00fdch \u0161t\u00edtov. V \u0161tvrtok skoro r\u00e1no za\u010d\u00edname s Ma\u0165om Prcinom \u0161lapa\u0165 z chaty do \u013dadov\u00e9ho sedla, nasleduje traverz do Siv\u00e9ho sedla a u\u017e len cez hrebe\u0148 Snehov\u00fdch ve\u017e\u00ed do Horn\u00e9ho kotla \u013dadov\u00fdch doliniek. <\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Chcem liez\u0165 variant Maro\u0161a \u010cervienku v Stanislawskeho ceste v 300metrovej stene Zadn\u00e9ho \u013dadov\u00e9ho \u0161t\u00edtu. Maro\u0161 o tejto ceste nap\u00edsal \u201cPri jazde \u013dadov\u00fdmi dolinkami sme s otvoren\u00fdmi \u00fastami \u010dumeli do severnej steny Zadn\u00e9ho \u013dadov\u00e9ho a priam neskuto\u010dnej \u013eadovej l\u00ednie, ktor\u00e1 v nej natiekla. Jedn\u00e1 sa v podstate o 300-metrov\u00fa l\u00edniu Stanislawskeho cesty kom\u00ednom, ktor\u00e1 v\u0161ak naj\u0165a\u017e\u0161ie miesta oblieza z\u013eava. 2 direkt d\u013a\u017eky strm\u00fdch \u013eadov\u00fdch z\u00e1rezov a kom\u00ednov, ktor\u00e9 s\u00fa ako vystrihnut\u00e9 zo severnej steny Grandes Jorasses, tam \u010dakali iba na n\u00e1s! <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Netu\u0161\u00edm, \u010di sme boli v direkte prv\u00ed, alebo \u010di sa tadia\u013e ka\u017ed\u00fa zimu pre\u017eenie st\u00e1do \u013eadoborcov, jedno je ist\u00e9 minim\u00e1lne v 2 d\u013a\u017ekach sa jedn\u00e1 o samostatn\u00fa l\u00edniu. Dovolil som si tento variant nazva\u0165 Goulotte a oklasifikova\u0165 WI 5.\u201dCestu sa n\u00e1m podarilo vyliez\u0165 OS a v podmienkach ktor\u00e9 boli na t\u00fato ro\u010dn\u00fa dobu priam neuveritelne dobr\u00e9 by som ju ohodnotil na V,WI4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

E\u0161te ten de\u0148 musel \u00eds\u0165 Ma\u0165o dole a tak sa na \u010fal\u0161\u00ed de\u0148 d\u00e1vam dokopy s Ri\u0161om Nemcom. Chceme preliez\u0165 kombin\u00e1ciu ciest Kuch\u00e1\u0159\/Svato\u0161 do Vy\u0161nej Goralskej  \u0161trbiny(III) a Dorawskeho cestu (IV,WI3) v severoz\u00e1padnej stene \u013dadov\u00e9ho \u0161t\u00edtu. Po rannom n\u00e1stupe tak aj \u010din\u00edme, takmer 800 metrami bombastick\u00e9ho lezenia sme sa s\u00fabe\u017ene prehnali pribli\u017ene za 5 hod\u00edn a na obed sme na vrchole. 
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