{"id":7432,"date":"2018-03-07T23:21:09","date_gmt":"2018-03-07T21:21:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?page_id=7432"},"modified":"2018-03-07T23:21:09","modified_gmt":"2018-03-07T21:21:09","slug":"nestastie-na-mirali","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?page_id=7432","title":{"rendered":"Ne\u0161\u0165astie na Mirali"},"content":{"rendered":"

De\u0148 pred odchodom \u2013 balenie. Balenie n\u00e1m trvalo cel\u00e9 doobedie, nekone\u010dn\u00e9 priberanie a\u00a0odoberanie nepotrebn\u00e9ho, len aby sa to zmestilo do expedi\u010dnej bedne. Prv\u00e1 katastrofa za\u010dala na letisku, kde n\u00e1m t\u00fato expedi\u010dn\u00fa bed\u0148u dali vybali\u0165. Za p\u00e1r min\u00fat sme museli da\u0165 sp\u00e4\u0165 do bedne v\u0161etko, \u010do n\u00e1m predt\u00fdm trvalo nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn.\u00a0 Boli sme ale radi lebo sa tvrd\u00ed, \u017ee ke\u010f je zl\u00fd za\u010diatok, tak je dobr\u00fd koniec.<\/p>\n

\"\"letisko Samarkand<\/p>\n

Po lete do Moskvy, v\u00a0ktorej sme sa sna\u017eili vypi\u0165 v\u0161etok alkohol na palube lietadla nasledoval let do Samarkandu. V\u00fdstup z\u00a0lietadla n\u00e1m spr\u00edjem\u0148ovalo obrovsk\u00e9 teplo a\u00a0smrad z\u00a0verejn\u00fdch z\u00e1chodov. Rusk\u00fd lezci, ktor\u00fd n\u00e1s pozvali n\u00e1m pripravili program spo\u010d\u00edvaj\u00facu z\u00a0n\u00e1v\u0161tevy miestnych me\u0161\u00edt a\u00a0trhov. \u010eal\u0161\u00edm bol v\u00fdlet do mesta Buchara. Po kult\u00fare n\u00e1s nalo\u017eili na vojensk\u00fd n\u00e1kladiak. Odviezli n\u00e1s do z\u00e1kladn\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora vo F\u00e1nskych hor\u00e1ch pri jazere Kuli-Kalon. <\/u><\/p>\n

U\u017e samotn\u00e1 cesta cez horsk\u00e9 priesmyky bola ve\u013ek\u00fdm adrenal\u00ednom. Zo z\u00e1kladn\u00e9ho t\u00e1bora sme prv\u00e9 dni absolvovali v\u00fdlety do okolia a\u00a0aklimatiza\u010dn\u00e9 t\u00fary na mieste okolit\u00e9 pohoria. Pri jednom takomto v\u00fdlete sme ja a\u00a0Noro natrafili na mal\u00fa osadu miestnych pastierov. Pri pozorovan\u00ed miestneho osla, ktor\u00fd n\u00e1s fascinoval t\u00fdm, \u017ee mal \u00fad dlh\u0161ie ako zadn\u00e9 nohy sme sedeli na drevenej ohrade a\u00a0faj\u010dili jednu cigaretu za druhou. Ke\u010f sa Noro rozka\u0161lal z\u00a0vyfaj\u010den\u00fdch cigariet, pri\u0161iel ku n\u00e1m miestny chlapec (cca 13-14 rokov) a\u00a0pri po\u010d\u00favan\u00ed jeho ka\u0161\u013ea skon\u0161tatoval, \u017ee do t\u00fd\u017ed\u0148a na ten ka\u0161e\u013e umrie.<\/p>\n

\"\"Noro Gero, Marian Hant\u00e1k, Laco Makay ml, Vlado Zboja, Palo Mur\u00e1\u0148<\/p>\n

Po t\u00fdchto potulk\u00e1ch a\u00a0t\u00farach pri\u0161iel \u010das na to, pre\u010do sme tam pri\u0161li. I\u0161lo sa liez\u0165. Ja a\u00a0Noro sme si vybrali \u013eadop\u00e1d v\u00a0kulo\u00e1re, ktor\u00fd kon\u010dil v\u00a0sedle a\u00a0pokra\u010doval hranou na \u0161t\u00edt Mirali. T\u00fato cestu vyliezla rok predt\u00fdm anglick\u00e1 v\u00fdprava. Prv\u00fd pokus o\u00a0n\u00e1stup na stenu DIAMAR-u sa n\u00e1m nevydaril. V\u00a0noci sme sa vybrali pod n\u00e1stup ale tesne pred vybalen\u00edm vercajchu pri\u0161la ve\u013ek\u00e1 b\u00farka. Ur\u00fdchlene sme sa poschov\u00e1vali a\u00a0\u010dakali na koniec b\u00farky, \u010do bolo a\u017e po nieko\u013ek\u00fdch hodin\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n

Na n\u00e1stup do steny u\u017e bolo neskoro, tak sme sa vydali na cestu sp\u00e4\u0165 do t\u00e1bora.\u00a0 Po ceste sp\u00e4\u0165 sme ostali zdesen\u00fd. Za p\u00e1r hod\u00edn da\u017e\u010fa obrovsk\u00e9 mno\u017estvo zosunov, bahna a\u00a0kame\u0148ov \u00faplne zmenilo dedinu, po ktorej sme \u0161li hore. Zostupova\u0165 sme museli \u00faplne inou cestou a\u00a0obch\u00e1dza\u0165 bahnov\u00e9 pl\u00e1ne, po ktor\u00fdch sa nedalo prejs\u0165.<\/p>\n

Po dvoch d\u0148och hl\u00e1sili dobr\u00e9 po\u010dasie, tak sme pokus opakovali-prezmenu druh\u00fd cie\u013e-MIRALI. Do steny sme nastupovali e\u0161te za tmy. Cesta za\u010d\u00ednala \u013eadop\u00e1dom, ktor\u00fd mal d\u013a\u017eku cca 600-700 metrov. Vynikaj\u00faci pevn\u00fd \u013ead. Lezenie po \u0148om i\u0161lo ve\u013emi r\u00fdchlo a\u00a0boli sme presved\u010den\u00ed, \u017ee v\u0161etko p\u00f4jde pod\u013ea \u010dasov\u00e9ho pl\u00e1nu, ktor\u00fd sme chceli si napl\u00e1novali.<\/p>\n

Len\u017ee po 300-350 metroch lezenia v\u00a0\u013eade vy\u0161lo slnko, ktor\u00e9 za\u010dalo ohrieva\u0165 skalu nad nami a\u00a0t\u00fdm za\u010dalo ostre\u013eovanie. Najprv pr\u0161ali kamienky vo ve\u013ekosti slivky, nesk\u00f4r tenisovej lopti\u010dky a\u00a0ke\u010f za\u010dali okolo n\u00e1s lieta\u0165 kr\u010dmov\u00e9 popoln\u00edky, tak sme zbabelo u\u0161li do skalenej steny na pravo, kde n\u00e1s \u010diasto\u010dne chr\u00e1nili previsy. To ale spomalilo postup, skala bola ve\u013emi rozbit\u00e1. Istenie a\u00a0\u0161tandy boli ve\u013emi komplikovan\u00e9. Poobede sme doliezli na snehov\u00e9 pole, ktor\u00e9 bolo cca 200 metrov dlh\u00e1 a\u00a0za \u0148ou n\u00e1s \u010dakala e\u0161te 200 metrov vysok\u00e1 skaln\u00e1 stena, ktor\u00e1 kon\u010dila v\u00a0sedle, kde bol pl\u00e1novan\u00fd prv\u00fd byvak.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Odtia\u013e sme mali na druh\u00fd de\u0148 pokra\u010dova\u0165 na \u0161t\u00edt Mirali. ( z\u00a0neho jednod\u0148ov\u00fd v\u00fdstup a\u00a0zostup – 2 noc v tomto bivaku. Zostup do inej doliny k\u00a0Aloadinskemu jazeru, kde bol horolezeck\u00fd t\u00e1bor- 3. noc a\u00a0zostup drobn\u00fdmi kamienkami asi 500m su\u0165, skoro na cel\u00fd de\u0148 do na\u0161eho t\u00e1bora) To sa v\u0161ak neudialo, preto\u017ee na snehovom poli ktor\u00fd bol polo\u017een\u00fd a\u00a0\u013eahk\u00fd- sme sa odviazali, aby sme zr\u00fdchlili postup. Pribli\u017ene v\u00a0polovici som za sebou po\u010dul hluk. Obzrel som sa za seba a\u00a0zbadal som Nora, ktor\u00fd akur\u00e1t preletel cez hranou dosteny.<\/p>\n

Zostal som s\u00e1m a\u00a0bez oble\u010denia na noc, lebo to mal pri sebe Noro. Ta isto mal pri sebe aj vysiela\u010dku, tak\u017ee privola\u0165 pomoc alebo ozn\u00e1mi\u0165 \u010do sa stalo nebolo mo\u017en\u00e9. Najd\u00f4le\u017eitej\u0161ie bolo pre\u010dka\u0165 noc mokr\u00fd v\u00a0tenk\u00fdch nohaviciach, tri\u010dku a\u00a0v\u00a0tenkej bunde. Po\u010dasie sa na \u0161\u0165astie nezmenilo a\u00a0napriek tomu \u017ee riadne mrzlo, po vyu\u017eit\u00ed v\u0161etk\u00e9ho \u010do som mal (lan\u00e1, smi\u010dky, batoh) sa to dalo vydr\u017ea\u0165. Cel\u00fa noc som sa rozhodoval \u010do spravi\u0165. Doliez\u0165 cestu a\u00a0\u00eds\u0165 druhou stranou, cez druh\u00fa dolinu do t\u00e1bora? Alebo zlani\u0165 cel\u00fa stenu nasp\u00e4\u0165? R\u00e1no zv\u00ed\u0165azila druh\u00e1 mo\u017enos\u0165 a\u00a0aj preto, \u017ee som mal v\u0161etok lezeck\u00fd materi\u00e1l. S\u00a0prv\u00fdm svitan\u00edm som za\u010dal zla\u0148ova\u0165. Mal som sk\u00fasenosti, odhodlanie, nieko\u013eko kusov sk\u00f4b a\u00a02 ks lano \u00e1 40m. O\u00a0100% \u0161tandoch z\u00a0dvoch bodov , alebo pav\u00fakovi som mohol len sni\u0165. Isto by mi nevy\u0161iel materi\u00e1l, tak\u017ee samotn\u00e9 zlanenie bolo ve\u013emi nebezpe\u010dn\u00e9, s\u00a0priebe\u017en\u00fdm ostrelovan\u00edm padaj\u00facich kamienkov, kame\u0148ov, balvanov.<\/p>\n

Nora som na\u0161iel asi 200 metrov nad n\u00e1stupom. K\u00fasok nad n\u00edm sa trhali seraky a\u00a0okolo neho padali snehov\u00e9 lav\u00edny, tak som ho chcel aspo\u0148 k\u00fasok odtiahnu\u0165, aby ho nezasypalo no bol to m\u00e1rny pokus. Bol som tak\u00fd vy\u010derpan\u00fd, \u017ee som s\u00a0n\u00edm ani nepohol. Tesne a\u00a0konci mor\u00e9ny oddychujem, tro\u0161ku presp\u00edm a\u00a0pokra\u010dujem no\u010dn\u00fdm zostupom. Do t\u00e1bora som sa dostal a\u017e na druh\u00fd de\u0148 r\u00e1no. Par\u00e1da ! T\u00fdm, \u017ee som mal dva dni na noh\u00e1ch mokr\u00e9 pono\u017eky, tak mi ich d\u00e1vali dolu aj s\u00a0ko\u017eou. Nemohol som potom chodi\u0165, tak som sa ani nez\u00fa\u010dastnil na sp\u00fa\u0161\u0165an\u00ed Nora a\u00a0jeho prevozu do t\u00e1bora. Predpove\u010f chlapca sa splnila, bol to presne t\u00fd\u017ede\u0148 od jeho predpovede. No pravidlo, ktor\u00e9 som spomenul na za\u010diatku sa bohu\u017eia\u013e nesplnilo. \u00a0Zl\u00fd za\u010diatok a\u00a0ten najhor\u0161\u00ed koniec.<\/p>\n

Marian Hant\u00e1k-KOLIBR\u00cdK (sp\u00edsan\u00e9 janu\u00e1r 2018)<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

De\u0148 pred odchodom \u2013 balenie. Balenie n\u00e1m trvalo cel\u00e9 doobedie, nekone\u010dn\u00e9 priberanie a\u00a0odoberanie nepotrebn\u00e9ho, len aby sa to zmestilo do expedi\u010dnej bedne. Prv\u00e1 katastrofa za\u010dala na letisku, kde n\u00e1m t\u00fato expedi\u010dn\u00fa bed\u0148u dali vybali\u0165. Za p\u00e1r min\u00fat sme museli da\u0165 sp\u00e4\u0165 do bedne v\u0161etko, \u010do n\u00e1m predt\u00fdm trvalo nieko\u013eko hod\u00edn.\u00a0 Boli sme ale radi lebo … Pokra\u010dova\u0165 na Ne\u0161\u0165astie na Mirali<\/span> →<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":7461,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-7432","page","type-page","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/7432","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=7432"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/7432\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7469,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/7432\/revisions\/7469"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/7461"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=7432"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}