{"id":7429,"date":"2018-03-07T23:20:47","date_gmt":"2018-03-07T21:20:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?page_id=7429"},"modified":"2018-03-07T23:20:47","modified_gmt":"2018-03-07T21:20:47","slug":"o-stasti-a-smutku","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?page_id=7429","title":{"rendered":"O \u0161\u0165ast\u00ed a sm\u00fatku"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>DIAMAR<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>S Vladom Zbojom sme nemali \u017eiadne konkr\u00e9tne ciele, preto\u017ee sme nemali \u017eiadne inform\u00e1cie. Pl\u00e1n sme mali ale jasn\u00fd 2-3 prvov\u00fdstupy. Kde, kade a ako to sa rozhodneme na mieste. V hre bola stale mo\u017en\u00e1 kontrola zo strany dom\u00e1cich. Nakoniec sme si mohli liez\u0165 a chodi\u0165\u00a0 \u201cna vlastn\u00e9 nebezpe\u010denstvo\u201d kde a kade sme chceli.<\/p>\n<p>Nad t\u00e1borom smer juh sa t\u00fd\u010dil prekr\u00e1sny kopec DIAMAR nie\u010do okolo 4 000m. Na ten sme s Vladom zamerali svoje sna\u017eenie. Pilierom i\u0161la len jedna cesta, tak bolo rozhodnut\u00e9. Cca 800 m kompaktn\u00e9ho piliera \u2013v\u00fdzva bohov h\u00f4r.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7485\" src=\"http:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20-DIAMAR-a-\u010das\u0165-cesty.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1600\" height=\"1067\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20-DIAMAR-a-\u010das\u0165-cesty.jpg 1600w, https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20-DIAMAR-a-\u010das\u0165-cesty-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20-DIAMAR-a-\u010das\u0165-cesty-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/20-DIAMAR-a-\u010das\u0165-cesty-1024x683.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1600px) 100vw, 1600px\" \/>V pozad\u00ed DIAMAR s v\u00fdstupovou trasou<\/p>\n<p>Po no\u010dnom\u00a0 n\u00e1stupe\u00a0 cca 5-7 hod.( to si u\u017e nik nepam\u00e4t\u00e1) sme za\u010dali postupova\u0165 vcelku dobre. Lezenie nebolo \u0165a\u017ek\u00e9, ale \u017eia\u013e ani moc pekn\u00e9. Skala bola bu\u010f l\u00e1mav\u00e1, alebo vymyt\u00e1 od vody. Istenie teda ni\u010d moc. Pl\u00e1n bol vyliez\u0165 na policu niekde v polovici a po bivaku pokra\u010dova\u0165. Poli\u010dku sme dosiahli vcelku vpoho a v dobrom \u010dase. Ale! Hora vycerila z\u00fabky.<\/p>\n<p>Ja som sk\u00fa\u0161al, Vlado, e\u0161te raz ja a potom Vlado,,, Vtedy nepustilo. O p\u00e1r dn\u00ed nesk\u00f4r sme sa do cesty vr\u00e1tili a dl\u017eku nakoniec vyliezol Vlado. Cel\u00e1 bola isten\u00e1 na vklinencoch a frendoch. Ja som potom liezol dal\u0161ie dve, streda\u010dka v 17, 18 d\u013a\u017eku som dal ja. Pam\u00e4t\u00e1m si, \u017ee 18. \u0161tand bol v 2 frendoch vrazen\u00fdch o stropu, st\u00e1l som v s\u013eu\u010dk\u00e1ch a e\u0161te som istil Vlada,,, Bola to taka divo\u010diny. Ale siln\u00fd z\u00e1\u017eitok,,, Ke\u010f som doliezol t\u00fa 18 d\u013a\u017eku, tak som sa povracal, \u010diasto\u010dne od strachu, od vysilenia,,,,, U\u017e sme toho mali pln\u00fd kotel,,,Sme sa e\u0161te raz prestriedali po 2-3 d\u013a\u017ekach sme boli hore. Vrchol ve\u013emi nev\u00e1bny<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7484\" src=\"http:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/Diamar-14.-dlzka.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1080\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/Diamar-14.-dlzka.jpg 1080w, https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/Diamar-14.-dlzka-203x300.jpg 203w, https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/Diamar-14.-dlzka-768x1138.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/Diamar-14.-dlzka-691x1024.jpg 691w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1080px) 100vw, 1080px\" \/>Probl\u00e9mov\u00e1 14. d\u013a\u017eka<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>\u0160tastie na Marii<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&#8230;teper\u00edme sa tmavou nocou, bez hviezd a luny. Dopredu n\u00e1s \u017eenje ten nejasn\u00fd nepokoj \u010dloveka, \u010do m\u00e1 strach, \u010di skorej re\u0161pekt pred t\u00fdm \u010do ho \u010dak\u00e1, ale nechce sa toho vzda\u0165. Aj ke\u010f \u0161lapa\u0165 tmou, po nezn\u00e1mom horskom chodn\u00edku je n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9 na s\u00fastredenie, vedieme s Vladom vesel\u00fa debatu pln\u00fa o\u010dak\u00e1vania, ako a kadia\u013e povedieme na\u0161u cestu. Pred v\u010derom sme si vyniesli pod kopec batohy, tak dnes ideme na\u013eahko. Odhadujeme , \u017ee za nejak\u00e9 3-4 hodky sme pod stenou.<\/p>\n<p>Skorej c\u00edtim, ako vid\u00edm Vladov \u00fasmev, pocit dobrej n\u00e1lady, nevad\u00ed ani to, \u017ee sme st\u00e1vali o 4:00 hod. , \u00a0v t\u00e1bore Kulikalonsk\u00e9 jazero v cca 3000 m.n.m .\u00a0Ako na povel obaja zastaneme a zm\u013akneme. V nemom \u00fa\u017ease h\u013ead\u00edme do 10-14 p\u00e1rov jasne zelen\u00fdch o\u010d\u00ed. Pocit nejasn\u00e9ho strachu rie\u0161i Vlado pokynom &#8222;ber do ruky kamene, tak \u013eahko sa ned\u00e1me&#8220;.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7474\" src=\"http:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/26_odtia\u013eto-sme-nastupovali-pod-stenu-to-bol-n\u00e1\u0161-predsunut\u00fd-t\u00e1boredi.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"600\" height=\"399\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/26_odtia\u013eto-sme-nastupovali-pod-stenu-to-bol-n\u00e1\u0161-predsunut\u00fd-t\u00e1boredi.jpg 600w, https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/26_odtia\u013eto-sme-nastupovali-pod-stenu-to-bol-n\u00e1\u0161-predsunut\u00fd-t\u00e1boredi-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/>Kulikalovska jazera &#8211; odtialto sme nastupovali pod stenu<\/p>\n<p>V \u010dierno-\u010diernej tme n\u00e1s obkolesila svorka miestnych psov, pri ktor\u00fdch by nemeck\u00e1 doga bola pudlikom. Ver\u00edme, \u017ee sme bl\u00edzko osady miestnych ko\u010dovn\u00edkov, ktor\u00fdm sme pri zostupe pom\u00e1hali naklda\u0165 p\u00edniov\u00e9 drevo na muly. A\u017e bude najhor\u0161ie budeme kri\u010da\u0165&#8230; \u0160eptom mi Vlado prezrad\u00ed svoj z\u00e1chrann\u00fd pl\u00e1n: &#8222;Hod\u00edme medzi nich po kameni a druh\u00fd si nech\u00e1me v ruke na obranu&#8220;. Jednoduch\u00e9 ale v tej chv\u00fdli geni\u00e1lne. Tie be\u0161tie sa z\u013eakli a tak ako n\u00e1s obkolesili, tak zmyzli.<\/p>\n<p>Dnes si mysl\u00edm, \u017ee Bohovia H\u00f4r n\u00e1s upozor\u0148ovali na to, \u010do pride. Mlad\u00ed, pln\u00ed sily a endorf\u00ednov, sme si mysleli, \u017ee t\u00fa stenu aj oto\u010d\u00edme, \u017ee v splnen\u00ed si na\u0161ej predstavy o prelezen\u00ed 1 000m vysokej a min. 500 m \u0161irokej steny, zatia\u013e bez horolezeckej stopy n\u00e1m ni\u010d a nikto nezabr\u00e1ni. Mali sme rovnak\u00e9 pocity ako na\u0161i lezeck\u00fd predkovia, ke\u010f st\u00e1li pod severnou stenou Eigru a vedeli, \u017ee bud\u00fa prv\u00fd, kto ju d\u00e1.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-7487\" src=\"http:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/25-n\u00e1stup-pod-M\u00e1riu-LACo-M..jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1067\" height=\"1600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/25-n\u00e1stup-pod-M\u00e1riu-LACo-M..jpg 1067w, https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/25-n\u00e1stup-pod-M\u00e1riu-LACo-M.-200x300.jpg 200w, https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/25-n\u00e1stup-pod-M\u00e1riu-LACo-M.-768x1152.jpg 768w, https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/25-n\u00e1stup-pod-M\u00e1riu-LACo-M.-683x1024.jpg 683w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1067px) 100vw, 1067px\" \/>Laco Makay ml., n\u00e1stup pod Mariu<\/p>\n<p>Batohy nach\u00e1dzame bez probl\u00e9mov a ke\u010f\u017ee sme si pri vyn\u00e1\u0161ke poobzerali stenu, za\u010d\u00edname okolo 9. hod liez\u0165.\u00a0Skala je dos\u0165 l\u00e1mav\u00e1, ale dobra na trenie. Naber\u00e1me d\u013a\u017eku, za d\u013a\u017ekou (jedna d\u013a\u017eka je 50m.).\u00a0Ke\u010f \u0165ah\u00e1m ja, sk\u00fa\u0161am z\u013eava do \u0161iro\u010diny, nejde. Tak sa vr\u00e1tim nadleziem zprava\u00a0 a po tom blou, popod ktor\u00fd som dos\u0165 dlho liezol preliezam obchvatom t\u00fa nepr\u00edjemn\u00fa \u0161iro\u010dinu (\u0161irok\u00fa, ale fest \u0161irok\u00fa \u0161p\u00e1ru).<\/p>\n<p>Vlado nie\u010do za mnou vol\u00e1,,, ja si mysl\u00edm, \u017ee ma chv\u00e1li, ale to on nie, Potom mi povedal, \u017ee sa v nemom \u00fa\u017ease d\u00edval, ako sa ten blok, d\u00e1va pomaly do pohybu, zr\u00fdch\u013euje a potom sa oddeluje od steny a s rachotom si to val\u00ed do doliny. No \u010do u\u017e. Bohovia poslali \u010fa\u013e\u0161ie varovanie. A \u010do\u017ee my sa dame? Nie! S preh\u013eadom vyv\u00e1dza spolulezec\u00a0 nieko\u013eko d\u013a\u017eok a\u017e dosiahneme snehov\u00fd kotol. Vyu\u017eijeme mo\u017enosti na varenie a oddych s mo\u017enos\u0165ou vystre\u0165 sa do polohy le\u017emo. \u010cas m\u00e1me dobr\u00fd. H\u013ead\u00edme vy\u0161\u0161ie , Vlado ur\u010duje smer, v\u0161etko sa zd\u00e1 take jednoduch\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p>Nedar\u00ed sa mi nast\u00fapi\u0165 do \u0161parky, Vlado ma vymen\u00ed. Za\u0161tanduje v takej \u201cpadi\u201d jaskynke, do ktorej ja nevleziem, tak dopln\u00edm material a leziem \u010falej. Urob\u00edm stand. Dodnes si pam\u00e4t\u00e1m, \u017ee to bol \u201ckon\u00edk\u201d a \u010dok \u010d.9. Vlado dolezie ku mne, ostrej\u0161ia v\u00fdmena n\u00e1zorov kadia\u013e \u010falej. Ja navrhujem do\u013eava na piler a potom u\u017e len cca 30m \u013eadu a cesta v kapse, Vlado navrhuje posledn\u00fa d\u013a\u017eku doprava k\u00fatikom a plat\u0148ou. To naj\u0165a\u017e\u0161ie nakoniec! Je star\u0161\u00ed-nech je po jeho.<\/p>\n<p>Opatrne, ale s preh\u013eadom odlieza prelieza cca 30m, sk\u00fa\u0161a traverz doprava, poprv\u00e9 podruh\u00e9. Sc\u00e9na sa men\u00ed, v\u0161etko je rozh\u00e1dzan\u00e9, Vlado let\u00ed a ja s vytre\u0161ten\u00fdmi o\u010dami h\u013ead\u00edm, \u010di som ten stand spravil dobre. Vyt\u0155ha 2-3 istenia ost\u00e1va visie\u0165 v \u010doku. K\u013eaje fu\u010d\u00ed. Sp\u00fa\u0161\u0165am ho k sebe. Zatia\u013e len fu\u010d\u00ed, ale v\u00fdraz jeho tv\u00e1re je ako n\u00e1ves\u0165, \u017ee : teraz to pride.<\/p>\n<p>\u201cLaco, pri p\u00e1de som trafil nohamy policu a asi m\u00e1m jednu zlomen\u00fa. Chyban\u00e1 diagn\u00f3za. Zlomen\u00e9 su obe.\u00a0Pr\u00edde to nevyhnutn\u00e9: prez\u00favame lezky a ob\u00favam ho do duplexov (dvojvrstvov\u00e9 vibramy, nie\u010do ako ly\u017eiarky). Ru\u010d\u00ed, k\u013eaje, ja tie\u017e.\u00a0Sp\u00fa\u0161\u0165am ho na snehov\u00e9 pole, tam vykon\u00e1me obhliadku \u0161k\u00f4d. Lek\u00e1rni\u010dka veru na tak\u00fato galibu nesta\u010d\u00ed, tak Vlado si to u\u017e\u00edva. S\u0165ahujem lan\u00e1, teda chcem ich stiahnu\u0165,,,,Sekli sa a mne neost\u00e1va ni\u010d in\u00e9, len nasadi\u0165 \u0161plha\u010de a \u0161plha\u0165 po jednom konci, bez istoty ako ten druh\u00fd dr\u017e\u00ed\u2026.lebo u\u017e ho nevid\u00edm. Veci-lan\u00e1 zrovn\u00e1m, vr\u00e1tim sa k Vladkovi a\u2026.Pokro\u010dil\u00e1 doba vel\u00ed, \u017ee n\u00fadziv\u00fd bivak (sp\u00e1nok v pr\u00edrode-pod \u0161ir\u00e1kom), bude tu na polici zo snehom.<\/p>\n<p>Vysiela\u010dkou oznamujeme n\u00e1\u0161 stav a polohu a var\u00edme. No sna\u017e\u00edme sa vari\u0165, medzi z\u00fafalstvom, k\u013ean\u00edm a Vladov\u00edm ru\u010dan\u00edm. Nohy puchn\u00fa do slon\u00edch rozmerov, a\u017e mu praskne na topani \u0161norka. Ru\u010d\u00ed on, k\u013eajem ja a tak pre\u017eijeme t\u00fa z\u00e1zra\u010dn\u00fa noc z .2 na 3 . Augusta 1989.\u00a0Nez\u00fafame, len chladne zva\u017eujeme na\u0161e mo\u017enosti. Pod name je cca 500m, sk\u00e1l, miestana horsk\u00e1 slu\u017eba n\u00e1s dole ned\u00e1 tak sa r\u00e1no rozhodujeme zost\u00fapi\u0165 zla\u0148ovan\u00edm. Ono sa to \u013eah\u0161ie vymysl\u00ed, ako realizuje. Obe nohy zlomen\u00e9 tesne nad kotn\u00edkom, z\u00e1klad slu\u0161nej bolesti.<\/p>\n<p>O kvalite zla\u0148ovac\u00edch stanov\u00ed\u0161\u0165 nepochybujem, lebo in\u00e9 nebud\u00fa. Vlado ru\u010d\u00ed, ja k\u013eajem a tak v tejto kakof\u00f3nii str\u00e1came v\u00fd\u0161ku. V 13. zla\u0148\u00e1ku stret\u00e1me z\u00e1chran\u00e1rov. Dost\u00e1vame jest a morfium.To druh\u00e9 je lep\u0161ie. Od teraz sa o Vlada staraj\u00fa oni, o nich sa mus\u00edm postara\u0165 ja, bo chlopi nevedia vytvori\u0165 zla\u0148\u00e1k.\u00a0Sp\u00fa\u0161\u0165ame sa na k\u00fa\u017eel, kde na n\u00e1s \u010dak\u00e1 lek\u00e1rka Irina, viac z\u00e1chran\u00e1rov a mula na transport. Vlado je profesion\u00e1lne o\u0161etren\u00fd, napichan\u00fd \u010fa\u013e\u0161\u00edmi zak\u00e1zan\u00fdmi l\u00e1tkami, morf\u00edn, kodein. Nalo\u017eia ho na mula a ideme dole\u2026.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-7489\" src=\"http:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/27_smutn\u00fd-zostup.....jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"554\" height=\"960\" srcset=\"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/27_smutn\u00fd-zostup.....jpg 554w, https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/27_smutn\u00fd-zostup....-173x300.jpg 173w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 554px) 100vw, 554px\" \/>Smutn\u00fd zostup<\/p>\n<p>Srandovn\u00fd poh\u013ead. Jeho nohy v dlah\u00e1ch tr\u010dia do str\u00e1n a tak zavadia o v\u0161etko, \u010do je pri chodn\u00edku&#8230; Mysl\u00edme si, \u017ee viac bolesti u\u017e nebude.\u00a0Bude, ke\u010f sa cez vysiela\u010dku dozvieme, \u017ee N\u00e1\u010deln\u00edk zahynul 2.8 na Mirali.\u00a0Pokorne a v bolesti zostupujeme do zakl. t\u00e1bora, kde je Vladovi dopriata super starostlivos\u0165.\u00a0P\u00e1tranie po N\u00e1\u010delnikovy pokra\u010duje cel\u00fd 3. August a n\u00e1jdu jeho telo 4. Nalo\u017eia n\u00e1s spolu do UAZ-u a \u010dak\u00e1 n\u00e1s cca 8 hod\u00edn jazdy do Samarkandu.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>Smutn\u00e1 cesta domov<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Vlado sed\u00ed vpredu, Ferko Pia\u010dek, a ja sed\u00edme s N\u00e1\u010delnikom vzadu.\u00a0Tada N\u00e1\u010deln\u00edk le\u017e\u00ed a ja sed\u00edm na tej k\u00f4pke, \u010do ostala z m\u00f4jho kamar\u00e1da. Smutn\u00fd transport.<\/p>\n<p>V pribli\u017ene osemsto tis\u00edcovom meste je jedna nemocnica, ktorej patol\u00f3gia pr\u00edjma a\u017e r\u00e1no. To \u017ee telo u\u017e c\u00edti\u0165, bo teplo vykon\u00e1va svoje , je v danej chv\u00ed\u013eke pre zriadenca nepodstatn\u00e9. Svinsk\u00fd \u00fasmev na jeho tv\u00e1ri vyk\u00fazli 10 rublovka=cca 5 flia\u0161 vodky.\u00a0\u010ea\u013e\u0161\u00edch 50 rublov plat\u00edm druh\u00e9mu, aby pripravil, umyl a obliekol N\u00e1\u010deln\u00edka, nako\u013eko ja nato nem\u00e1m gule.<\/p>\n<p>Pres\u00favame sa na \u00farazovku a z\u00e1rove\u0148 cestujeme v \u010dase. To\u013eko biedy a \u0161piny\u2026Rontgen odhal\u00ed zlomeninu aj \u010fal\u0161ej kosti.\u00a0Vlado dost\u00e1va morfium, ja ni\u010d.\u00a0Zlo\u017e\u00edme sa v medzin\u00e1rodnom t\u00e1bore, kde je o n\u00e1s super postaran\u00e9.\u00a0Tureck\u00e9 z\u00e1chody robia Vladovi problem, tak vyraz\u00edm zo stoli\u010dky dno a m\u00e1me to. S\u00fa situ\u00e1cie, kedy je intimita tabu.<\/p>\n<p>V\u010dasne r\u00e1no ideme po ostatky N\u00e1\u010deln\u00edka. Tu sa dozved\u00e1me \u010fa\u013e\u0161ie \u0161pesi\u00e1lnosti v\u00fdchodu. Doneste si truhlu. T\u00fa k\u00fapime u miestneho stol\u00e1ra. Akur\u00e1t , \u017ee t\u00ed Aziati s\u00fa tak N\u00e1\u010delnikovi po prsia. Ako dosta\u0165 185 cm chlapa do 160cm truhly tento problem s Ferkom vyrie\u0161ime. Ako? My vieme.<\/p>\n<p>Vzd\u00e1me N\u00e1\u010delnikovy posledn\u00fa poctu a ideme\u00a0 aj s t\u00fdmto nie moc mil\u00fdm bal\u00edkom zh\u00e1\u0148a\u0165 klampiara. Vladkovi sa ozvali pri v\u0161etkej tej smole zuby. Idme na kliniku a cestujeme v \u010dase. Lek\u00e1r jednou ihlou o\u0161etruje asi tak 15 pacientov v rade. Ke\u010f to Vlado vid\u00ed stane a chce od\u00eds\u0165. Zabudne, \u017ee m\u00e1 nohy v s\u00e1dre a ch\u00f4dzu vprdeli. Pad\u00e1, ja k\u013eajem Vlado vzdich\u00e1. Zub je vonku. Ferko vybavuje mimoriadny odlet.<\/p>\n<p>Let je ve\u010der okolo 20 hod. Ferko ost\u00e1va , Vladko, N\u00e1\u010deln\u00edk a ja ideme. Smer Moskva. Pr\u00edlet na Domodedovo niekedy nad r\u00e1nom. Presun cez Moskvu na druh\u00e9 letisko. Vladka pren\u00e1\u0161am do tax\u00edka a dohadujeme sa, \u017ee sa stretneme pod tabu\u013eou pr\u00edletov. Kedy a ako to vtedy netu\u0161\u00edm. Nerie\u0161ime ani, ako sa Vlado dostane na bod stretu. Vybavujem, za slu\u0161n\u00fd \u00faplatok, prevoz ostatkov-v\u00e1\u017eilo to viac ako 160 kg cez mesto, bez ot\u00e1zok a odpoved\u00ed. \u010eal\u0161\u00ed \u00faplatok v cargo Vnukova-2. Pozna\u010d\u00edm si t\u00fa na\u0161u, bo u\u017e s\u00fa tam d\u00e1ke rovnak\u00e9 bedne. \u010co je vnich je zrejm\u00e9\u2026Nem\u00e1m povolenie na prevoz ostatkov, nem\u00e1m prachy u\u017e ani na vodku, nieto na nadv\u00e1hu, nem\u00e1me miesto v lietadle. M\u00e1m odhodlanie a Vlada.<\/p>\n<p>Prv\u00e9 vybavujem na \u010ceskosl. aerolink\u00e1ch miesto v lietadle,,, posielaj\u00fa ma rovno za kapit\u00e1nom lietadla. Neviem ako, ale zariadi to. Akur\u00e1t mus\u00edm zaplati\u0165 nadv\u00e1hu a ma\u0165 povolenie na prevoz ostatkov N\u00e1\u010deln\u00edka.<\/p>\n<p>Druh\u00e9 kolo. Vlada som zabudol na WC, kde stato\u010dne \u010dakal cca 2 hod. Zabezpe\u010dujem mu voz\u00edk pre invalidov a idem na colnicu.<\/p>\n<p>Tret\u00ed krok. Colnica.\u00a0 Plno \u0161ikmook\u00fdch, rev a krik. Deriem sa k de\u017eurnej, ktor\u00e1 sa spr\u00e1va ako De\u017eurnaja. Kri\u010d\u00ed vrieska. Ja jej s neuverite\u013en\u00fdm k\u013eudom polo\u017e\u00edm ot\u00e1zku,,,,, \u201cpre\u010do po mne kri\u010d\u00ed\u0161 ako krava?\u201d Ona sa dos\u0165 ostro na m\u0148a osop\u00ed \u010do som jej to povedal, tak jej to prelo\u017e\u00edm s t\u00fdm najsprostej\u0161\u00edm \u00fa\u0161k\u013eabkom ak\u00fd viem. A u\u017e ma \u0161ikuje k velitelovi. Tu si repliku na jej pr\u00edkaz zopakujem a vysvetlujem, \u010do m\u00e1m na letisku-Vladka a \u010do m\u00e1m v cargo_N\u00e1\u010deln\u00edka\u2026 Velitel chce da\u0165 telo previes\u0165 na d\u00e1ku kontrolu, na\u010do mu ozn\u00e1mim, \u017ee nie s\u00fadruh komandir, nie nem\u00e1m \u010das, Vladko m\u00e1 prednos\u0165 a let m\u00e1me za cca 4 hod. Ja viem kde t\u00e1 truhla je. Vy ju budete musie\u0165 h\u013eada\u0165. Z\u00e1pis o ulo\u017een\u00ed, \u017eiadna stopa nevedie od nikoho-nikam. E\u0161te sa chv\u00ed\u013eu bav\u00edm s t\u00fdm pr\u00edslu\u0161n\u00edkom KGB o Prahe a v jednej chv\u00ed\u013eke, len tak bez mihnutia oka buchne pe\u010diatku o preclen\u00ed na pitevn\u00fd protokol.\u00a0De\u017eurn\u00e1 ma v \u00facte vyv\u00e1dza von, odtl\u00e1\u010da \u017elt\u00fdch a dost\u00e1vam sa u\u017e do medzin\u00e1rodn\u00e9ho priestoru\u2026D\u00e1kou chodbi\u010dkou sa vr\u00e1tim pre Vlada a tou istou cestou ho prev\u00e1\u017eam na medz. p\u00f4du.<\/p>\n<p>\u0160tvrt\u00e9 kolo-konzul\u00e1t, \u017eiados\u0165 o podporu a finan\u010dn\u00fa pomoc.\u00a0Konzul, alebo \u010do to bolo za arogantn\u00e9 prasiatko sa tv\u00e1ri, \u017ee on veru 300 rublov na zaplatenie nadv\u00e1hy nem\u00e1, \u017ee jeho \u00farad tak\u00e9to veci nerie\u0161\u00ed\u2026Nezaber\u00fa ani argumenty, \u017ee sta\u010d\u00ed z\u00e1ruka konzula, \u017ee to potom na Slovensku uhrad\u00edme\u2026\u017de v socialistickom \u010ceskoslovensku nem\u00f4\u017ee ob\u010dan zmizn\u00fa\u0165, len tak\u2026.Tresknem dverami a sp\u00fa\u0161\u0165am hlavu do dlan\u00ed. Tesne pred cie\u013eom som narazil na \u013eudsk\u00e9 hovno\u2026.Moju nemil\u00fa situ\u00e1ciu zachr\u00e1nil vojensk\u00fd pridelenec, ktor\u00fd potebn\u00fd telefon\u00e1t zariadil. Som mu neskuto\u010dne v\u010fa\u010dn\u00fd. Vybieham pred konzul\u00e1t, stopujem prv\u00e9 taxi a n\u00fakam \u0161of\u00e9rovi 3-n\u00e1sobok ceny, ak stihneme odlet . Adrenal\u00edn z tej jazdy ma napumpuje\u2026<\/p>\n<p>Beriem Vladkana chrb\u00e1t a posledn\u00e9 kroky na cudzej p\u00f4de. V lietadle n\u00e1s priv\u00fdta osobne kapit\u00e1n, a ospravedln\u00ed sa za personal, \u017ee nie je schopn\u00fd vynies\u0165 m\u00f4jho kamar\u00e1ta hore schod\u00edkmi. Drobnos\u0165 odpoviem, sad\u00e1me si a\u2026. pla\u010deme obaja.<\/p>\n<p>Epil\u00f3g. V Blave sa rozdelujeme, ka\u017ed\u00fd po svojej osi. Ja vlakom, Vladka \u010dak\u00e1 man\u017eelka Gaja, ktor\u00e1 je v 9. mesiaci tehotenstva. Oprava defeku dvoma osobami, kde jedna je v pokro\u010dilom \u0161t\u00e1diu tehotenstva a druh\u00e1 sa pohybuje len posed\u00e1van\u00edm mus\u00ed by\u0165 pre pozorovate\u013ea komick\u00e1.<\/p>\n<p>Po tejto pr\u00edhode mi lezenie\u00a0 nehralo prim.\u00a0Odstupom \u010dasu chcem po\u010fakova\u0165 z\u00fa\u010dastnen\u00edm, za trpezlivos\u0165 a toleranciu.\u00a0Po 4 rokoch som sa ktomuto kr\u00e1snemu \u0161portu vr\u00e1til\u2026<\/p>\n<p>Laco Makay ml.<\/p>\n<p>Profil lezcov:<\/p>\n<p>L<strong><u>ACo Makay ml. &#8211; <\/u><\/strong>horolezec od 1979 viac ako 40 prvov\u00fdstupov v oblasti Man\u00ednov, viac ako 200 v\u00fdstupov v Tatr\u00e1ch, v\u00fdstupy na Kakukaze, Pam\u00edre v Alp\u00e1ch, Fansk\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch,Dolomitoch. Viac zv\u00e4zov\u00fdch ocenen\u00ed za v\u00fdstupy v stredn\u00fdch hor\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n<p><strong>\u00a0<u>Vlado Zboja\u00a0 &#8211;\u00a0<\/u><\/strong>horsk\u00fd vodka UIAGM, mno\u017estvo\u00a0\u00a0 prvov\u00fdstupov v Tatr\u00e1ch, nieko\u013eko 8 000 a 7 000 v Himal\u00e1jach, liezol na v\u0161etk\u00fdch kontinentoch, na ka\u017ed\u00fd vr\u0161ok, \u010do m\u00e1 pre horolezcov v\u00fdznam, cestovate\u013e, z\u00e1chran\u00e1r, Chlap<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>DIAMAR S Vladom Zbojom sme nemali \u017eiadne konkr\u00e9tne ciele, preto\u017ee sme nemali \u017eiadne inform\u00e1cie. Pl\u00e1n sme mali ale jasn\u00fd 2-3 prvov\u00fdstupy. Kde, kade a ako to sa rozhodneme na mieste. V hre bola stale mo\u017en\u00e1 kontrola zo strany dom\u00e1cich. Nakoniec sme si mohli liez\u0165 a chodi\u0165\u00a0 \u201cna vlastn\u00e9 nebezpe\u010denstvo\u201d kde a kade sme chceli. Nad &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/?page_id=7429\" class=\"more-link\">Pokra\u010dova\u0165 na <span class=\"screen-reader-text\">O \u0161\u0165ast\u00ed a sm\u00fatku<\/span> <span class=\"meta-nav\">&rarr;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":7479,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-7429","page","type-page","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/7429","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/4"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=7429"}],"version-history":[{"count":11,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/7429\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7535,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/pages\/7429\/revisions\/7535"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/7479"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/hkmanin.sk\/wp\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=7429"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}